Many years ago, must have been 1989, I was attending Tech again after
flunking out (again). It was 49ers, and I was attacked by a group of
people from out-of-town. I was severely beaten, skull fractured in
many places, almost lost my eye, etc. You can feel the difference in
the bone under the two sides of my face.

Well, such events have a way of changing your outlook on life. It left
me feeling helpless and vulnerable, and I was afraid of many
situations.

About that time, some people started bolting climbing holds onto the
side of the Tech Gym. A friend of mine started taking me there, and
dinking around on those cheesy slick plastic holds on that flat
vertical surface was funner than anything! I would work out for hours,
relishing the feeling of sore muscles. It gave me a psychological edge
against the powerlessness I was feeling.

Long after my friend stopped going to the wall, I was still hanging
out there as often as possible, meeting the local climbers. They
dragged me out to Box and I was totally hooked. Many years have
passed, and I've been climbing all over the country, and done just
about everything. Slabs and overhangs, traditional and bolted, aid,
granite and sandstone, snowy epics and sunny walkups, serious
competition to drunken midnight naked bouldering.

I figured out eventually that climbing was not going to give me bigass
muscles or make me a better fighter, or save me from evil somehow. It
was several years of various forms of martial arts and that eventually
helped to diminish the fear inside of me. But it was the climbing that
had a much bigger impact on my life as a whole.

Climbing isn't really about getting strong and vanquishing foes, be
they people or rocks. Climbing is an athletic pursuit, a completely
abstract endeavor (why climb it?), a social outlet, a spiritual meal,
a way to enthusiastically and intimately enjoy nature. It's an excuse
to get away from all the crap, and absorb the mind and body in
wonderful dance with ancient rocks. It's all the best parts of
weightlifting, chess, and running in one activity. I could go on and
on...

My beliefs:

Climbers are a minority. Our activity is viewed by many as a dangerous
fringe fad, and some think it should be illegal. That's the reason I
got involved in climbing activism. That's why we have to actively
advocate climbing, and be responsible in our use of the land. We have
to be supportive of beginner climbers and respect others who want to
enjoy the land. Being a great climber doesn't mean you're a superior
human being. All it means is that you can get to the top of a rock
that has been there for millions of years and will continue to be
there long after you die.

I enjoy gym climbing, and I enjoy outdoor climbing, but keep the gym
away from the crag. Enjoy the challenges that nature has presented,
but don't chisel, glue, chip, or bolt on holds on outdoor crags. Go
find a new area, or develop yourself, but don't assume that everyone
is going to appreciate your efforts to create a route outdoors. Real
routes are found. It saddens me and many others to go to dirt wall, or
U-mound, or Hueco and see the permanent imprint of someone's ego on
the rock. Please understand that you're hurting others when you do
this. And if a hold breaks, leave it off! Either learn how to do the
problem without it (which often adds considerably to the quality!), or
don't climb that particular rock. Let someone better/more courageous
come along someday.

I believe that you should buy and wear climbing shoes that are
comfortable! It's amazing how many people wear painful shoes. Ever see
someone cruise your project in tennis shoes? Oh yeah.

I also believe in rest days, belayers/spotters, and silly beta."