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Socorro Bouldering Guide - Spook Canyon - Main Area

From the parking area, the main Spook bouldering area is to the Southwest. Hike the steep the two-track down to the wash and then up to the single tracks trails above. From here you can take the right fork of the singletrack which switchbacks up to the main area by the cliffs, or the left which swings by the French Ethics area, All Done boulder, and then heads up to Upper Spook.

Warm Up Rock

Big red boulder with bright green lichen. The North face is overhung while the West face is slabby. There is a large crack on the right side of the North face.

    Warm Up Rock, Northeast corner
    The Northeast corner of the Spook Warm Up Rock
  1. Spudnip? - V2 Peck
    On the East face, far right hand side, just left of the sit start of the problems below. Sit start on a sidepull, crank to slopers and crimps, finish on the ledge.
  2. Warm Up Rock, North and West Faces
    The North and West Faces of the Spook Warm Up Rock
  3. The Smell of Beer - V? tall, scary, very bad landing Peck
    From the traverse start on the Northeast corner, go straight up the North face over the very bad landing.
    "May have had chemical assistance, hence the name" - Peck
  4. Smell of Beer variation - V? tall, scary, very bad landing Peck
    A variant goes right on the traverse to crimps, then dyno and top out over hideous block landing.
    "A fall off of either [Smell of Beer problem] would be like landing in a giant blender" - Peck
  5. Spook Traverse Wimpout - V1 (V1-V9) tall, bad landing
    Sit start down on the Northeast corner. Cruise up and right all the way to the wide crack, then up the crack to top out.
  6. Spook Traverse Wimpy Version - V1 (V1-V9) tall, bad landing
    Instead of going up the crack as above, keep going around the corner and go up the juggy West face.
    The whole West face is fun at V0-V1.
  7. Spook Warmup AKA Spook Traverse - V1 (V1-V9) tall, bad landing, scary
    Keep going right, until you are at the Southwest corner. Go up on small crimps to top out.

Heavy Metal Boulder AKA The V4s

UTM 13S 0316776 3763581
Just West of Warm Up Rock, about 30 feet East of the main wall.
    Heavy Metal Boulder, South face
    The South face of Heavy Metal Boulder
  1. Mesquite Variation? - V4 Joel or Nathaniel?
    Same start as Judas Priest below, but go left on crimps over a mesquite bush.
  2. Judas Priest - V4 Peck
    On the left side of the South-facing face. Sit start to freaky mantle.
    Peck did not bother to name this one or the next, he just referred to them as "those V4s".
  3. Eric Scully - V4 (V4-V7) Peck
    In the middle of the South face. Sit start on a crimpy sidepull and an undercling pocket. Go straight up over the lip and top out.
    Eric Scully seemed like a teenage prodigy in the late 90's. The youth had supposedly redpointed 8b+ (5.14a/b) at age 13 and had a long list of incredible acheivements by age 15. However, legend has it that he could not do this problem, claiming that it was "at least V7 (~7c)". He went on to compete all over the world with dissapointing results, his sponsors abandoned him, and disappeared from the competition scene just after the turn of the century. Were his early accomplishments mere fabrications and exaggerations, or did he just peak early? And where is he now? Hopefully, still enjoying the rock somewhere...
    Anyway, Peck had given this one V4 (and the consensus grade as of 2003 is hard V4 almost V5) but didn't bother to name it (I had mistakenly attributed the name to Peck in a previous version of this). People would refer to it as "that Peck problem that Eric Scully said was V7" and thus it became "The Eric Scully V7", which is the name I was told years ago. I'm not trying to bash Eric Scully here, just trying to explain the colloquial name. I hope he's still bouldering, enjoying life, and doesn't hit me too hard for trying to be accurate.
    Update: at the 2007 Hueco Rock Rodeo I met and talked to Eric Scully. He says that he has just started climbing again. He competed at the Rodeo with impressive results. My personal opinion is that he is a naturally strong climber and did climb 8b+. I told him there was a boulder problem in Socorro named after him and not neccessarily in a positive way, and he seemed amused.

  4. Heavy Metal Boulder, North face
    The North face of Heavy Metal Boulder
  5. Heavy Metal - V3 Andy
    Sit start in the hole with both hands in the hueco. Go left through slopers and bad feet to then crank the lip.
    Peck rediscovered this problem a few years after Andy did it (although Andy neglected to name it), but there was no chalk on it by then, so he named it something really cool that no one can remember. Anyway, it's such a interesting line that it was probably done first long ago...
  6. ? - V1
    Same start as Heavy Metal but go straight up.
  7. ? - V3
    Start as above but do the goofy butt-dragger gut-wrencher traverse and then go up just left of the arete.

  8. Heavy Metal Boulder, West face
    The West face of Heavy Metal Boulder
  9. Gummy Ratt - V3 loose Bob?
    On the left side of the West overhanging face just behind Spook wall. Powerful sit start on underclings. Work onto the loose stuff and huck for the lip.
    The loose rock is gonna knock someone's teeth out.
  10. Locnar - V1
    Sit start and pull jugs and sidepulls left to the jugs at the lip.

    8 var. Locnar variation - V0
    Sit start and pull jugs straight up.

Beer Bucket Boulder

Tall boulder about 30 feet South of Warm Up Rock, with two bolts on top.
    Beer Bucket Boulder, East face
    The East face of Beer Bucket Boulder
  1. No Excuses - V4 Peck
    Sit start on icky holds, and go straight up.
    Alex did this one in a leg cast; so even a broken leg is no excuse!

Cowshit Cave

An overhang on the main wall West of Beer Bucket Boulder and South of the bolted routes.
    Cowshit Cave middle
    The middle of Cowshit Cave
  1. Rubberband Fingers - V8 (V7-V8) Jake
    Slick dihedral going left and up using the crack and crimps.
  2. Meine Gummi Frau - V10 Jake
    Sit start for Rubberband Fingers. Starts four feet right on holds at waist level, goes up a few feet, and then traverses left into the starting holds of Rubberband Fingers.
    Originally envisioned by Peck, Jake's sucessful first ascent put the spurs to Peck, and anger fueled Peck's immediate second ascent a few minutes later.

  3. Cowshit Cave right side
    The right side of Cowshit Cave
  4. Wake and Bake AKA Cowshit Cave Problem - V3 (V3-V5) tall Devlin
    Sit start far to the right on jugs. Traverse left on good handholds to the large block six feet off the ground and in a black streak. Go up and left to the high jugs above the blank-looking face, and go up to the ledge. Traverse right back down to the big scoop above the block and downclimb.
    Devlin's original line ended halfway through by dropping from the block, and was given V2 in the black book.

updated February 27th, 2007
Bob Broilo