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Note: This guide is close to being abandoned, I only add stuff when I'm in a hurry and don't have pictures yet. Most info is now here:
Socorro Boulder Guide

Socorro Bouldering Documentation Project

An attempt to identify, document, grade, photograph, locate (UTM), provide history for, and climb all the bouldering in the Socorro, New Mexico area. Can be used as a (crappy) guide to Box Canyon, Spook Canyon, the Magdalena Mountains, Monster Island, and more.

If you have any information for the SBDP, or have ideas (I know the format sucks, but I do want it to be complete), please mail me:

A useful guide to ratings for those unfamiliar with the "V" scale:
Ratings comparison

Annotated maps for use with the following SBDP text:

Socorro Bouldering Documentation Text

Socorro Bouldering Documentation Project
Socorro, New Mexico Bouldering: Areas, Problems and History

Bob Broilo
Original 3/14/2001
Updated 3/24/2004

The SBDP homepage:

Contact point for information and updates:

More than two years into this thing, and it's finally getting complete
enough to be useful.  Shoot, even I've looked stuff up in it.  I'm
guessing that I have over 3/4 of the known problems.  If you have
info, send it to "bob at nmt dot edu" or
NOTE: I've noticed that I get "left" and "right" confused sometimes.


This is trying to be a list of all the bouldering in the Socorro, New
Mexico area.  Mostly a historical document, and maybe to point you to
a new area or two, or as a resource for people writing real guides.

This is a living document, and will change as correct information
comes in, new stuff goes up, and adventures happen.

I have enough pictures and maps collected over the years, so
eventually this will be html, with links to the images.  Right
now the images can be found at the homepage.


Bouldering and climbing are inherently dangerous activities that may
result in serious injury or death.  By choosing to climb or boulder, a
person is choosing to put themself into a dangerous situation, and
assumes all responsibility for his or her safety or well-being.  This
guide will only tell you where the boulders are and what known
established problems are on them.  It does NOT tell you how to boulder
safely, how to survive outdoors, how to deal with inclement weather or
animals, or how to navigate without getting lost.

The boulder problems in this guide are NOT checked for safety.  There
may be loose rock, poisonous snakes and insects, sharp holds, bad
landings, crazy drunk idiots with guns or vehicles, asteroid impacts,
lightning strikes, biting dogs, cow dung, cactus, flash floods, and
numerous other dangers to life and health.  Any person going to the
areas described here must be aware of all potential hazards and
dangers and be trained to deal with them before going.


Do not chip, glue, chisel, or modify the rock in any way.  It's OK if
a hold falls off: leave it off!  Do not "comfortize" in any way.  The
only damage to the entire Socorro area bouldering at the writing of
this document were three minor mistakes:
1) one glued-on hold on Unbeatable (it still goes at the grade if you off
the tainted hold, and is considered a mistake),
2) one glued-on and chiseled hold on Edges that nobody uses, so it's a
mystery why someone put it there, and
3) some useless, ridiculous chiseled holds on East Streambed.

A precedent has been set here, all problems free, natural, and
unmodified!  Get strong enough to climb it as nature built it or leave
it for someone better, stronger or more courageous.

Do not litter, build new fire rings, or start fires in caves (hurts
the bats).  Do stay on established trails when possible.  Repect
private landowners.  Respect the plants and animals, be they wild or

Be friendly and have fun!

Climb any way you want that doesn't hurt the rock: chalk, crashpads,
beta spew, cleaning holds with a plastic brush, even chalk tick marks
(ick) are considered OK.  Send in high style or cheese out with an
active spot and some cheater stones, just enjoy the rock as best you
can.  No one will be impressed that you climbed some inflated
V-whatever in Socorro anyway, so just try to please yourself.


General Layout:
Area (Land Manager: BLM, NM, Forest Service, Private, etc.)
 Location, description
 GPS coordinates in UTM (no I will not translate to Lat/Lon for you)
  Boulder (AKAs are in chronological order, if known, original name first)
   Location, description
    Problem - consensus V-rating(V range)/B-rating warnings (FA and date, if known)
     Description, tidbits, etc.

  Problems are usually from left to right on a boulder/wall, a "*"
  next to the FA means that there is strong evidence that the problem
  had been done before but the info is lost.  A "?" anywhere means
  that the info is sketchy.  And some words of wisdom from Matt Samet:
  "I mean, what do you count as a first ascent too when you're
  bouldering, a variation or just a new line?".

  The V range is the range of ratings reported by various people, and
  helps to remind you not to get hung up on the ratings.

  Besides, the ratings at Box are pretty messed up, especially
  considering our close proximity to the standards at Hueco.  Since no
  one but The Verm can put a real "V" rating on a problem anyway,
  don't sweat the grade.  It's just there as a rough guide, to help
  you find stuff you might enjoy.  A lot of the locals don't seem
  to place much emphasis on the grades.

  However, I do try real hard to come up with accurate ratings.  If
  you disagree with anything in here, please let me know!

  The real grade would be a quality grade, which I have not done.
  People's tastes vary wildly, so when in doubt, jump on it and see
  for yourself.  Stuff that most people seem to really like or
  problems that I really like are noted in the problem description.
  Some of the problems are in the new experimental "Box" system, which
  is an extension of the old John Gill B scale.  The intent of this
  rating is to give people a general idea of the difficulty so they
  can plan their bouldering day.  The Box or B system is thus:

	Box 0 or B0	V0			Everyone can enjoy
	Box 1 or B1	V1 to around V5ish	Intermediate
	Box 2 or B2	V6ish and up		Advanced to Ridiculous
	Box 3 or B3	V0 and up, unrepeated	Spewfodder


People I have sucked info from:
Matt "Spudboy" Cowan
Andy Mayer
Paul Arendt
Eric "Peck" Heatwole
Jake and Gail
Miss Jen

Box Canyon (BLM, some NM)
 Box Canyon is located seven miles West of Socorro on US60.  Head out
 US60 to a bridge with rock walls on both sides.  Take the next left,
 there should be a small BLM sign saying "The Box".  Head down the
 road to the bottom of the hill, then veer left at the "Y".  A hundred
 yards more and the main Box parking lot is to your left.

  Cowshit Roof
   UTM 13S 0316014 3764147
   You can see this roof to the East from the road heading in to the
   main parking lot.  Head North from the main Box parking a couple
   hundred yards on the trail at the base of the hill.

  Finishing Touches and Gravity Boots area
   UTM 13S 0316060 3764105
   On the way to Cowshit Roof, you can see two small walls up the
   hill.  There is an obvious trail heading up.
   Several new problems here.  Names/Ratings?

  Bankruptcy Wall
   UTM 13S 0316200 3764127
   From the main Box Parking lot, head Northeast along the northern
   side of the Canyon.  The huge overhung face is Ressurection Wall,
   supposedly named after someone took a death fall.  You're interested
   in bouldering, so keep going.
   Bankruptcy wall has a few short bolted routes on it.
    Bankruptcy Traverse - V2 (V2-V3) (Andy 10/25/95)
     Traverse the bottom of Bankruptcy wall from right to left, with a
     cool throw to reach the jugs near the end.

  "Streambed'll make you strong!" - Peck exuberantly quoting Bertrand
  Streambed is located just south of where the Box Canyon wash crosses
  highway 60.  You can either park on the side of the highway just West
  of the bridge and head down into the wash, or you can park at the
  main parking lot and head down the canyon.
  Streambed is different rock than most of Box, featuring
  pocketed tuff.  There are two major walls, East Streambed and West
  Streambed.  West Streambed is generally easier, less painful, and
  therefore more popular than East Streambed.
  The ground level and landings are at the mercy of the summer floods.
  At times, the low traverse can be much harder when the footholds
  are covered in sand.  Sometimes, large rocks can be deposited directly
  under high problems causing dangerous landings.  This area sees
  flash floods several times a year.

  For a few years a gold mine was operated here.  A wooden structure
  was erected and Box was often filled with the sound of a running
  water pump.  The climbers and miners would regard each other with
  mutual recognition of the insanity of the other, and the miner was
  an interesting person to talk to while bouldering the traverses.
  Then one day the miner dug up the ground under West Streambed and
  made a horrible landing for a while, which understandably angered
  the climbers and hikers.  No gold was ever found, the public was
  getting upset, and the miner was forced to leave.  It took years for
  him to remove all his equipment, and for a few years a boom truck
  was parked a few yards up from the wall.  Visiting climbers were
  told that the wooden structure was a gallows.

  When the landings are good, Streambed is a great place for night
  bouldering.  Streambed "Missions" were often run during the summer
  nights when the Biting Bugs of Box were sleeping and the air was
  cool.  The State Police showed up during one mission, having seen
  the lights and looking for a car that had seemingly driven off the
  highway bridge.  They left with baffled expressions for the strange
  idiots climbing rocks in the middle of the night.
  West Streambed
   UTM 13S 0316390 3764313
   Lip Left(?) - V4 tall (Rob*)
    Sit start in the streambed at the far left end of the wall, just
    right of the small boulder.  Go up to the lip, and then follow it
    to where it intersects Left Roof and top out.
   Left of Left - V8 (V8-V10)
    Sit start Left Roof, but at the jug go left out edges and a mono
    to the lip, then straight up.
   Left Roof - V5 (V4-V6) tall
    Stand start on a jug, go out the roof on pockets to the horn, then
    top out left.  Sit start is a bit pumpier.
    A Jake variation is to do the Low Traverse right to left and then top
    out using Left Roof.  I've seen people campus this problem.
   Painsnake - V4 (V4-V5) tall (Bob 2/2003)
    Go to the high jugs on Right Roof.  Traverse left on sharp holds, then
    drop to the horn and top out Left Roof.  Jake's idea.
   Circle of Pain - V5 (Jake)
    Go up Left Roof to the horn, go right and up and then back down to
    the jugs on Right Roof, down Right Roof and then traverse back left
    to the start of Left Roof.  A big loop.
   Right Roof - V3 (V3-V4) tall
    Very nice.  Stand start and use the slot to gain a sloper, then
    either go right to a sharp hold and top out, or traverse left to some
    jugs and top out.
   Hidden Hold - V1 (V1-V2) tall, crux at top
   Lucky Seven - V5 contrived (Peck)
    Only Peck seems to remember how this went, but it was classic.
   Crimpy Thing - V2 tall
    Start on the shelf, above the big hueco at navel height.  Grab the
    sharp jug and use small holds to the lip.  Nice crimp.
   Midway Crack AKA The Throne - V2 tall, scary
    Climb to the obvious seat, then top out through the crack.
   Huck - V3
    Sit start on a flexing undercling.  Go up and left to finger pockets,
    then huck right to a jug.  Top out if you dare.
   Short Cake - V5
    Sit start in the same undercling as above, then crank off small edges
    go gain the ledge.
   Slop - V4 semi-contrived (Bob*)
    Sit start ten feet right of the undercling.  Go up and right to a
    slimy knob, then up and left to small slopers, then to the good
    holds on the ledge.  Don't go too far right or the holds will get
    huge.  Traverse right and top out Guano Hold.
   Sloppy Seconds - V4 tall, scary (Barrett 6/10/2003)
    Do Slop, then top out to the left.
   Joel's Pocket Pleasure - V5 contrived (Joel)
    Just right of Slop, do reachy moves between sharp two-finger
    pockets to work up and left.
   Guano Hold - V1 tall, scary
    The nice hold 2/3 of the way up can be filled to the lip with
    guano.  When this occurs, everyone who grabs it from below says
    the same thing: "Eww".
   ? - V4 contrived (Jake)
    Sidepulls to a leap to the nice jug.  If you top out right the lip
    is loose.
   ? - V2 tall
    Go up to the fist crack and top out.
   Tongue - V1 tall
    Line of jugs with a "tongue" of rock sticking out the middle.
    Actually the tongue is now broken off, but a big smiley hueco marks
    the place where it used to be.
   The Highway - V0
   Low Traverse - V2 (V2-V3) (5.11+)
    Traverse the entire wall, Stay below about 6 feet for the grade.
   High Traverse - V1 (5.11-)
    Traverse the entire wall.  Pumpy.
    Jake has stayed on for a mile of laps in one push.  Yes, one mile.
    It took hours.
  Other side of the wash from West Streambed
   There is a short, small wall of the same type of rock.
   ? - V1
    Sit start under an overhang, nice slots to a tricky top out.
   Gorilla Face - V0 loose
    45 feet right of the above problem, on the far right side of the wall.
    Sit start to jug haul top out.

  East Streambed
   UTM 13S 0316426 3764342
   Long walk off.
    Gigapus - V1 (V1-V2) tall (Bob)
    Mr. Knobbles - V1 (V1-V2) tall (Bob)
    Mr. Wiggles - V1 (V1-V2) (Bob)
    ? AKA Haul Ass - V3 (Bob*)
     Sit start and climb small holds, then throw for the jug at the lip.
    ? - V4 tall (Nathaniel)
    ? - V5 tall (Scott)
    Knob Problem - V3 (V2-V5) tall
     Sit start on two underclings.  Come out the roof to the knob to
     reach the sharp jug on an embedded rock, and top out.
    Skinner Roof - V2 (V1-V5) tall
     Sit start at the back of the little cave, and come out the horizontal
     roof and then top out.
    Leviathan - V9 (Nathaniel)
     Traverse the entire wall from left to right.
   Across from East Streambed (Kinda North West Streambed)
    ? - V1 tall

 Highway 60 Wall
  UTM 13S 0316228 3764449
  From the Streambed parking lot off US60, you can see an alcove
  up the hill to the West.
 Green Pea
  ? - V3 bad landing
  ? - V2 bad landing, scary (Andy 1/29/97)
   Just downhill from the V3.  Sit start on a sloping knob.

 Goat Boulder
  UTM 13S 0316404 3764265
  Just South of Streambed is a boulder at the bottom of Redwall and
   Hot and Spicy Anal Lube - V4 (V4-V8) (Peck 9/27/95)
    Slick and painful.  The far left side of the North face.  Sit
    start on sharp holds, and crank up and left to top out.
    Believe it or not, this problem is very appropriately named.
    Go try it if you don't believe me.
   Milkin' the Billy Goat - V1 tall, scary, bad landing (Peck)
    Classic!  Middle of the North face.  Long reaches between pockets with
    a cruxy move to the lip.
   Feta Cheese - V2
    Sit start on the Northern corner, on the far left side of the overhang.
    Go up the North side of the arete.
   Billy Goat - V3 (V3-V4)
    Sit start like Feta Cheese, then traverse the overhang left to right.
   Goat Throw AKA Reachy Thing - V2 (V2-V4)
    In the middle of the overhang.  Sit start on a jug, throw to a slap,
    and straight up on nice holds.

 Peck Overhang
  UTM 13S 0316078 3764041
  Almost directly North of the main Box parking lot.  A little overhang
  facing North.
   ? AKA The Peck Undercling - V4 (V4-V6) (Peck)
    Sit start in the back, and go straight out and over.

 Waterfall Wall
  Main box parking lot: UTM 13S 0316096 3763993
  The obvious wall East of the main Box parking lot.  Lots of TRs, and
  overhung right and left faces.
   Battle Arms - V3
    Traverse the entire overhanging on the left side of Waterfall
    Wall.  So many holds have fallen off of this, but the fun and the
    grade have stayed the same.
   Rough Caress - V2
    Sit start down on the big block.  Boulder up and left to the last
    jug on Rough Caress.
   Tough Country Variation - V1
    Sit start on Rough Caress, but traverse right and then up to the
    start of the super manky stuff on Tough Country.  Essentially you
    are doing the crux of the route and then bailing.  It's only 5.9
    from here on up but dangerously loose, so it's not recommended to
    solo.  For a decent pump, do Battle Arms left to right, then go
    back right to left until at the start for Rough Caress, then go up
    the Tough Country Variation.  Andy even took it further to then
    downclimb back to the Battle Arms problem and go right, then lap
    back left to the start.
   1986 - V2
    On the right end of the overhang, just before the arete, go as high
    as you dare.  Again, just bouldering the low crux of the route.
   Handprint AKA The Colin B. Ankle Eater - V1 bad landing, crux at top
    A classic.  This problem was a little scarier before the days of
    crashpads, but it will still give a thrill.
    Funky holds get you to the
    dihedral just left of the large flat face, then follow it to the lip.
    Traditionally, there is a faint chalk handprint on the face.  The move
    just below the lip is balancey.  The horrible green monster rock at the
    base has broken at least one ankle.
   ? - V0
   ? - V2

 Tree Boulder AKA 5.12 Boulder
  Tree Boulder is the Northernmost boulder in the Waterfall group.  It
  features a small tree growing at the Northern corner.  The tree has
  grown over the years, and the low traverse is now blocked by the tree.
  Don't mess with the tree!  Journey to the Sun is just as fun and uses
  almost all the same holds, and a key hold for the low traverse has
  broken off anyway.
   The Tree Boulder Traverse AKA 5.12 Boulder Problem - V2 (V1-V4)
    Same start as The Tree Boulder Problem, but go left instead of up
    and top out the arete over the tree.
   Journey to the Sun - V4 contrived (Bob*)
    Can be a painful but beautiful journey.  Same start as the others, but
    traverse low to an icky crimper (a la the tree-blocked low traverse
    problem), then straight up.
   The Tree Boulder Problem AKA Shattered Bottle - V2 (V1-V3)
    The neat-o spiffy problem on Tree Boulder.  Either sit or stand start in
    the little overhang and go straight up through the two-finger pocket
    on the face.
   ? - V0 bad landing
    The rest of the face to the right is fun but sports an ankle-breaker
    ramp along the bottom of much of it.

  Ultimate Boulder
   UTM 13S 0316141 3764013
   Ultimate Boulder sports the overhanging, crimpy-looking face immediately
   East of Swine Boulder.
    Africa - V3 bad landing (Bob*)
      Sit start on the far left hand side of the face with one hand on the
      "Africa" flake.  Pull on crimps and slopers and into the juggy topout
      of Left Line.  A scarier and harder variation continues straight up on
    Ultilactic - V1 bad landing (Bob*)
      Starting on the far left of the face, do a suprisingly pumpy traverse
      across the face and finish up Left Line.
    The Ultimate Boulder Problem AKA Middle Line - V1
      Most cool.  Cruise up the middle on nice crimpers and turn the lip.
      For more fun, off as many holds as possible.  The big sharp jug just
      below the lip may break off someday.
    Left Line - V0 bad landing
      Go up, left, and up the juggy arete.
      This enormously popular problem used to be V0- until it got nasty
      polished and slick.

  Nothing Here Boulder
   The little boulder between Ultimate and Tree.
    Nothing Here - V0 (Andy)
     This was named Nothing Here in the black book.  Andy finally found
     the problem.
     Sit start under the tiny roof.

  Guillotine Boulder
   Just up the hill towards La Cueva Angela from Ultimate Boulder.
   Northeast facing. slightly overhung face.
    Madame Vasoline - V0 bad landing, scary (Paul)
     Sit start in an alcove, just right of a buried rock.  Go up
     and then traverse left over the scary rock, then top out.
    Madame Guillotine - V5 (V4-V7) (Andy 3/22/97)
     Superb, Beautiful, painful.
     This was worked a long time before anybody got it.  First
     Peck spied the line and started working it, but an injury
     set him back.  Andy worked on it for four and a half months
     before finally finishing it, although in a slightly different
     way than Peck first envisioned.
     Excerpt from Andy:
     "Then it was time..  Guillotine time!  That's right, you guessed
     it!  Another trip to fling myself at Madamme Guillotine!  And
     what, you might ask is Madamme Guillotine?!  Ahh..  Madamme
     Guillotine is about 15 feet of sharp V1-V2, to a crux that I keep
     trying to get involving a gaston off of a hold designed to hurt,
     throwing off a yucky to a little 2 finger thingy that also
     hurts.. You'll note the feet are lousy for this operation, and
     that once the 2 finger yucky is grasped, the standard method is
     to try to shove a couple fingers in a sharp little pocket..  All
     this plus another couple hard moves for the bargain price of just
     V6 or 7!  Alright..  did I mention it hasn't had a complete
     ascent yet since Peck hurt his finger out at Spook?" - 3/1/97
     Sit start on the right end of the boulder, go up and then start
     working left on sharp holds.  Either top out after reaching the
     jugs, or go ahead and link into Madame Vasoline for more fun.
    Madame Guillotine Short Variation - V4
     Sit start under the crux and top out.  A good way to get the crux
     of Madame Guillotine wired.

 La Cueva Angela
  Up the hill to the Northeast of Waterfall Wall.  Don't climb on the
  paintings (on the left side, low on the wall).  Lots of fun jug
  hauling out the roof (V9 to the end from the sit near the
  back-breaker rock).
 Gimmes AKA Pylons AKA Jelly Bean Boulders
  UTM 13S 0316151 3763849
  The group of small boulders South of Waterfall Wall and at the base
  of the hill directly below Dirt Wall/Hueco Wall.
  Pylon Boulder AKA North Gimme Boulder
   Pylon - V1 (V0-V1) crux at top
    The Northwest arete of the tall Pylon Boulder.
   Shock Treatment AKA Sleestak - V3 (V1-V4)
    The West face of the tall Pylon Boulder, sit down start on a big
    flake and stay to the right of Pylon.  Top out on slopers.
   Routine Expedition - V4 (V3-V4) (Bob)
    Sit down start, traverse left to Sleestak.
   ? - V4
    Sit start on the East tip (closest to Dirt Wall).  Go right.
   Alf Gets the Blender - V4 (Andy 11/3/96)
    Two move problem on the small boulder just west of the Pylon Boulder.
  South Pylon AKA South Gimme Boulder
   Crimpy Traverse AKA Land of the Lost - V5 (Bob*, Andy V5+)
    Traverse Enik right to left, then ooze around the corner
    and traverse the East face below the lip on tiny slopers and incuts,
    topping out above and right of Hardman Gimme.  There is a low, low
    traverse which is harder.
   Shaved Chaka - V0-
    Go up the left side of the North face.
   Enik - V2
    Traverse the North face below the lip right to left from a sit-start.
   Hardman Gimme - V4 (V4-V6)
    The Southern arete, sit down start.
   ? - V2 (V1-V3)
    Sit start at the bowl on the Southwest side.  Go up and right on
    the lip slopers and top out at Hardman Gimme.
 Southern Gimmies
  Ursa Major Boulder
   UTM 13S 0316061 3763953
   The Great Bear.
   "Interestingly, a number of North American tribes (Algonquin,
   Iroquois, Illinois, and Narragansett, among possibly others) also
   associated the constellation with a gigantic bear." - Robert
   South and a little West of the Gimmes is a fairly large boulder,
   close to the road.
   ? - V0 tall
    On the Northwest side, start over a bush and go straight up.
   Lacerta - V1
    "The Lizard"
    Lizards are the only true locals at Box and they will prove it
    by floating up your project while eating a bug.
    The Left side of the West face.
   Perseus - V1 bad landing
    "The Hero"
    Taller problem just right of the above.  Sit start and use a funky
   Serpens - V4 (Bob 5/1/2003)
    "This is the second part of the Ophiuchus- Serpens group. The
    Serpent is being grasped in the hands of Ophiuchus the Serpent
    Holder." - Richard Dibon-Smith
    Just around the corner on the South face.  Sit Start and grasp the
    small, slippery holds winding slightly right and top out.
   Draco - V1
    Sit Start in a large heuco.  Slap up to the lip and mantle out.
   Ursa Minor - V2 (Jason 4/13/2003)
    "The constellation dates from antiquity, and is said to have been
    introduced by the Greek philosopher Thales around 600 BC." -
    Richard Dibon-Smith
    The leftmost problem on the East face.  For the grade, sit start very
    low, crank up and then left over the bulge to top out.
   Hydra - V3 (Andy 2/16/96)
    Sit start on jugs on the far right side of the East face.  Go
    left, through Ursa Minor, crawl around the corner into the big
    hueco starting Draco, then go up.
   Aquila - V0
    "in honor of whatever bird of prey left the little critter bones
    in the huecos on the top of the boulder." - Jason
    Sit start on the same jugs but go up and left following good holds
    on a low-angle face.  This is a good downclimb for the boulder.
  Other boulders
   ? - V1 (Andy*)
   ? - V2 slippery layback (Andy*)

 Spinach Wall
  The short wall about 200 yards North of Dirt Wall.  There are two
  single-bolt anchors for the high problems to the right.
   Popeye - V0
    Big pockets to a slopey topout right
   Stoned Masters of Yore - V2 (Bob*)
    Sidepulls, gastons and slopey things.
   Honed Masters of Yore, Eating Spinach - V3 (V3-V4) (Bob*)
    Sit start on dishy things to pinches, then go straight up on sharp
   ? - V? tall
    Bolt on top.
   ? - V? tall
    Bolt on top.

 Minor Wall Bouldering
  UTM 13S 0316051 3762897
  On the right side of Minor Wall there is a nice traverse.

 Roadside Wall
  Between Minor Wall and Handlebar Willy, just off the East side of the
   ? - V2 bad landing
    Sit start on the left of the little alcove.
   ? - V3
    Sit start.
   ? - V1
    Sit start.

 Handlebar Willy
  UTM 13S 0316027 3762789
  The wall just to the South and up from Minor Wall.
   ? - V0 7'
    Just to the left of the curtain, sit start.
   ? - V1 14'
    Start as far down on the curtain as you can, and climb it out.
   ? - V2 10'
    On the right side of the curtain, crank up on sharpies.
   ? - V3 12'
    Sit start on two underclings on the right side of the curtain,
    suck up to avoid hitting the rock underneath, and go up on ickies.
   ? - V1
   ? - V0
   ? - V0
   ? - V1 tall scary bad landing
   Look Ma - V0 (no hands) (Bob)
    Jake came up with this silly thing.  Go up the wide crack with just
    your feet.
   Handlebar Willy - V1 tall, scary (Will)
    When Willy first sent this he had a handlebar moustache.  Go up
    the dihedral and top out to the right of the boulder on top.
   Handlebar Willy Direct - V5 tall, scary (Peck)
    Sit start under the roof.  Crank out to the right side of the wall
    to sharp pockets and straight up on crimps.  Top out as Handlebar Willy.
   ? - V1 tall, bad landing
    Go up the crack.
   ? - V0 tall
   ? - V0 tall
   ? - V0 tall
   Handlebar Willy? V3 (V3-V4) tall, scary (Will)
    Two-bolt anchor on top for those more sane, 5.12a?
   Box's Melon Patch - V0 tall, scary (Jake)
    One jug after another on the Southern end of the wall.

  Unbeatable Boulder
   UTM 13S 0316311 3762061
   Further down the road from the main Box parking lot, over the hill.
   The obvious boulder in the valley South of Major Wall and Alcohol
   Wall.  West of Angela Boulder.  Big, undercut Northwest face.
   Downclimb the juggy West face (V0-).
     Likin' Lichen - V0
      A few feet left of the overhang.  Groovy pocket pulling.  Sit
      start and angle left up the pockets.
     Dislikin' Lichen - V1
      Fun!  Sit start in the same place, but go right to an undercling
      and over the lip.
     Yellow Like Cheese - V3 (V3-V5) tall, scary
      Sit start under Dislikin' Lichen.  Up and Right to the lip, then
      traverse the lip to top out Pressure Drop.
     Spud's Little Fingers - V2 contrived (Spud)
      Rather than use any of the good holds, use the tiny vertical slot
      to gain the lip on Yellow Like Cheese from a standing start.
     Jah Lives - V5 (V4-V7) scary, contrived
      Way Ultra Cool.  Sit start, up and left on slopers and pockets.
      Upon gaining a small sloper shelf with a slot in the back about
      six feet off the ground, dyno to the lip.  Mantle.
     Traverse into Jah Lives - V5 scary, contrived
      Traverse low all the way from the sit start of Pressure Drop
      left to the starting holds of Jah Lives, then do Jah Lives.
     Burning Spear - V7
      Start on the holds about six feet up.  Go up and right.
     Godzilla - V9 (Jake)
      Sit start on Jah Lives and go to Burning Spear and top out.  Yet
      another Peck visionary line snarfed by the power of Jake.
     Wrath of Godzilla - V10 (Scott)
      Middle traverse left into Godzilla.
     Ant Man - V10 contrived (Jake)
     Swat Team vs Ant Lion - V10 contrived (Jake)
     Lion of Judea AKA Tuff Gong AKA Tough Goin' - V3 (V3-V5) tall, crux at top
      Sit start and straight up on a line of Huecos to the slopers
      over the lip.
     Pressure Drop - V1 tall, scary, crux at top
      Sit start and do the arete with some jugs on the left face.
      People have done this using *only* the arete but it's very much
      harder (V4-5?).
     Best Slab - V2 (V1-V2)
      Sit start a-la Pressure Drop but go right and up the slab over the bush.
      The easiest place to downclimb.
     Dub World - V0
     V0 tall
     Steel Pulse - V0+ tall
     V1 tall
     Is This Love - V0+ tall, scary
     Peck's Warmup - V3 tall, scary (Peck)
      Start on the crimpers of the middle V1 just left of the middle
      of the wall.  Go up to the lip, then traverse left to Dub World,
      down it, traverse across past your starting point and over to
      the bottom of Steel Pulse.  Go up it to the hueco just below the top.
      Come down to the bottom of Is This Love and go up it to top out.
     Johnny Too Bad - V3 (V2-V4) tall
      Slippery.  Sit start in pockets.  Go mostly up but slightly
      right on slick holds to gain the lip of the arete just below the
      big blocks.  Don't yank on the blocks or you might end up
      crushed beneath one.  Top out gingerly or go left and top out on
      safer terrain.  A V4 variation starts a few feet to the right on
      icky slopers, and the good edge and sidepull to the left are
     Slabs - V1 tall (V0-V1)
      For maximum value, use only your feet.
  Next to Unbeatable
     Shanty Town - V3 (V3-V5)
      Short, frustrating, one-move wonder.  Squat start, grab little
      crimps, straight up.
     Traverse - V2
      Traverse the lip, left to right.  Bushes now interfere, please
      don't mess with them.

  Dylan's Secret Garden
   UTM 13S 0316246 3762189
   At the base of the cliffs heading from Major Wall to Alcohol Wall.
   The down is on the back, but watch for cactus landings.
     On the right side of the left roof.  Goes to the wierd pocket.
     May have to contrive to get the proper amount of fun/grade.
    Fingerfucker - V6 (V6-V7) tall
     Classic!  Hurts.  Use an undercling and pinches to get to the two
     sharp holes, then straight up to a jug.
    Happy Birthday Dyno - V6 (V6-V?) tall (Jake)
     Jake sent this on his birthday.  Crank off two underclings to the
     big razor-sharp hole.  No known second ascent, it's that
     ridiculous, Jake isn't sure of the grade.
    Timmy's Wonderful Nightmare - V5 tall (Jake)
     Use sharp and slick holds to bypass the dyno on the Happy Birthday
    Under the Radar - V3 tall
     Dis the dish and go straight up to the jugs on Butter Dish.
    Butter Dish - V2 (V2-V3) tall
     Crank to the dish, and then left to the line of jugs and up.
    Porcupine - V1 (V0-V3) bad cactus landing
     On the right side of the wall, go right, up the arete.
    Traverse - V1
     Traverse the entire bottom of the wall.

  Major Wall Bouldering
   There is some stuff West of Dylan's secret garden just right of
   Bon Bon.  These problems are fun to do if your friends insist on
   doing routes and you're waiting to belay or climb.
    ? - V2
     Right of the start to Liberace's Anus, on the corner of the wall.
    El Bon - V3
     Goes from the start of Juckets and Bugs to the start of Bon Bon.
     Sit start on big huecos and traverse left, then go up the slab.
    Juck - V3
     Sit start on the same big huecos but yard directly up to sharp pockets.
 Tres Hermanas Area

  Looking East from the road just past Major Wall, you can see a
  lonely boulder with some Juniper trees around it in the middle of
  the valley.  This is Unbeatable Boulder.  Beyond Unbeatable to the
  East are three large boulders on the North side of the notch.  These
  are Arniel, Lucia, and Angela: Tres Hermanas.  These boulders and a
  few behind them to the East are the Tres Hermanas area.  Often
  people will lump together Tres Hermanas with Harmonica Convention
  and just call the whole mess "Behind Edges".

  Angela Boulder AKA Edges Boulder
   UTM 13S 0316461 3762046
   Edges AKA British Steel - V7 (V6-V7)
    So good that some of the holds have names.  Sit start down in the
    hole on the right side of the East face and cruise up to a big
    hueco.  Start traversing left, out little crimps and up sharp
    pockets to the big bacon flake.  Ignore the glued and chiseled
    crap hold and keep going left to grip the stellar British Steel
    hold.  Keep going left.  Many top out at the corner, but for
    maximum value keep going left around the corner and across the
    face, then top out the dihedral.
   Edges, hard start variation - V7
    Instead of going to the big hueco straight up from the sit start,
    go up and left to a long reach off an undercling to the last good
    hold before the crimpfest, then finish edges the normal way.
  There are also several Peck problems on the West face, including a
  spectacular dyno to a pocket.  Names?  Ratings?  Also, you can start
  after the main Edges problem on the Northwest corner and climb left
  to the dihedral and top out - V1
   V? tall, bad landing, scary (Peck)
    start as Edges but go right and then straight up.  Very tall, scary.

  Chewbacca Cave
   UTM 13S 0316519 3762078
   There is a very large boulder just East of Arniel.  The trail from
   Edges to Spedville takes you past this stunning overhang on the
   South face.
    Wookie on Planet Endor - V3 (Scott)
     Crimpy overhang.  Sit start in a hueco on the left side of the
     roof.  Work out and left to the big block at the lip.
    Chewbacca - V6 tall (Scott)
     Sit start on jugs a few feet to the right of Wookie on Planet
     Endor, and go out the roof.  Top out real high on easy ground,
     but don't fall unless you enjoy shattered ankles.
    ? - V?
     The corner to the right of Chewbacca.  Sit start to slopers over
     the lip.  Has not been soloed to the top, instead traverse and
  Girl Boulder
   UTM 13S 0316519 3762024
   To the East of the Chewbacca cave is a boulder with a flat face
   on the Southwest side.
    Feeling Merry - V4 tall, scary, crux at top.  (Scott)
     Start on good holds under the right-angling dihedral.  Go up
     to meet the dihedral and then top out.
    Jump for Joy - V4 tall (Scott)
     Super good.
     Start on a two underclings, and do long reaches between crimps to
     gain the top.
    Pinchin' Patti's Fatty - V4 (Scott)
     Between Jump for Joy and the left edge of the West face, go
     straight up the obvious line.

  Water Boulder
   This boulder is just East of Angela and just South of Lucia.  It
   has a wild roof on the Southwest (downhill) end, and a very short
   wall on the East side of the uphill end.
    Breathing Water - V1 (Bob 2/23/2003)
     "clear part is the water and the brown part is the land
     the clear part she is breathing filled with glass and bits of sand
     all the body and the breathing in the bottom of her jaw
     the part that I was leaving I was singing what she saw
     breathing water, breathing water, breathing water, breathing water
     the anger she was breeding in the wet part of her hand
     was the part that I was grieving that I didn't understand
     that the barbie in the bathtub had a wet spot in her lung
     the clear part she was breathing was the song that barbie sung
     breathing water, breathing water, breathing water, breathing water
     clear part is the water and the brown part is the land
     until she started biting all the fingers off her hand
     like the brain collected moisture in the bottom of her jaw
     like the clear part she was breathing like the blue part that I saw"
		    - Ant Farmers, "Breathing Water"
     On the uphill, short wall, sit start on poor holds, work up and
     right to an interesting top out.
    ? - V2 (Rob) tall, bad landing
     Same sit start as Bouldering Bitch, but go left and top out
     on the left end of the face.
    Bouldering Bitch - V2 (Sam)
     Sit start on jugs.  Go straight up.
    ? - V4?
     Juggy, horizontal roof, exits West and then traverses left to go
     out the traverse.
  Mushroom Head AKA Fun guy
   UTM 13S 0316506 3762035
   This boulder somewhat resembles a mushroom to the Northeast from
   the Harmonica Convention trail.  It is Southeast of Water Boulder
   and South of Arniel and Chewbacca Cave.  The cap is a darker red
   than the stem, which is whitish.
    Magic Mushroom - V2
     A truly excellent boulder problem.  Sit start on unbelievably
     spiffy holds on the left end of the stem where there is a boulder
     behind you.  Go up and right to the jug where the stem meets the
     cap, then up the arete.
    George Harrison Memorial Boulder Problem - V3
     Done on the day George Harrison died.
     Sit start on an icky "Spock pinch" and tiny edge, go straight up.
    Super Psycus Psilocibus - V1 tall
     Sit start on the two finger pocket and a hueco.  Go up to the
     the crack and left on jugs to top out.
    Mello Mushroom - V2 tall, bad landing
     Same start as Super Psycus Psilocibus, but after gaining the
     crack go right to top out.
    Rubber Soul - V3 bad landing (Scott)
     Sit start on the right side of the stem.  Go straight up to a dishy top
    Ass Crack - V1
     Named for someone's poor choice of trousers and a grossed-out
     spotter.  It's not a crack.  It's actually a mantle problem over the
     block just right of Rubber Soul.

 Harmonica Convention AKA Below Edges AKA Fight Club Boulders
  The boulders in the gully South of Angela Boulder.

  Entrance Boulder
   UTM 13S 0316449 3762024
   This boulder sits right on the North side of the Harmonica Convention
   trail.  It is the first large boulder after Unbeatable on your way
   down to the Harmonica Convention.
    ? - V0
     The low angle problem on the left.
    ? - V0
     Pockets and edges.
    ? - V2 bad landing
     On the right side, either start around the right corner on a shelf
     or sit start the bottom of the arete.  Go up the arete and then left
     to top out on the right side of the face.
  The Three-Star V2
   UTM 13S 0316465 3762011
   This boulder is in the gully that leads to Harmonica Convention,
   to the West of the trail.
    The Three-Star V2 - V2
     Truly excellent.  Sit start back in the little cave and go up the
     huecoed face.
    ? - V?
     Just to the right is a harder weird thing.
  The Potato
   From the three-Star V2, you can see a boulder just to the
   Southeast with a spiffy sit start problem.
    Miss Potato Head - V0 (V0-V1)
     The nifty sit start problem.
    Mashed Potatoes - V1
     On the South side of the boulder, sit start under the roof and
     go up and right to top out the East face.
    ? - V2
     Just down and across the wash from the Potato is a cool scoop problem.
   Up the hill from the Three-Star V2 is a series of short walls.
    Gecko Simulator - V2 bad landing (Andy)
     About 15-20' left of the 5.6 next to Slot Machine, up the hill
     to the South.
   On the clump of boulders between Gecko Simulator and the Three-Star
    Li Chen - V0
     Sit start on slopers to a jug haul.
    Bruce Leroy - V0 bad landing
     Just to the right.  Short jug haul.

  Peck's Mystery Boulder
   UTM 13S 0316489 3762020
   On the East side of the Harmonica Convention trail there is an
   obvious face.  It seems that the chalk washes off because people
   keep "discovering" it.
    Peck's Mystery - V5 (V4-V6) (Peck)
     Harder than it looks.  Sit start on the right side of the face
     on a big flake.  Traverse left several feet until reaching the
     jug on the left side, then straight up on good holds to top out.
    Variation - V5 (Nathaniel)
     Same start as above, but go straight up on crimps from the rail.
    Dog Will Hunt - V1
     On the South face, sit start and go up the dihedral, close to
     where the small boulder meets the main boulder.
    Perro Blanco - V2
     Just left of Dog Will Hunt, sit start and go up through the white
     bottomed hold.
    Perro Negro - V2
     ? Looked for this but may be overgrown with bushes now.
   Just to the Northwest of this boulder, there are two smaller rocks.
    ? - V3 bad landing (Scott)
     On the South face, sit start on a big sloper.  Go up and left.
    ? - V3 bad landing (Scott)
     Same sit start as above, but go up and left.
    ? - V1
     Go up the corner.
    Flexo - V1 (Peck)
     On the Southwest boulder.  Sit start on a big flake, and go right
     on small, slick holds to top out using the jug.  Much easier than
     it looks.  The flake is flexing big time.
     --> Actually I noticed the flake was gone on 2/23/2003.  Flexo is
     no more.
    Broken Wand - V3 (Scott 3/5/2003)
     Harry Potter impotence metaphor.
     As usual, when the Flexo hold broke it revealed a better problem
     hiding underneath it.  Sit start on small holds, go up and right
     using a sloper to gain the jug at the lip.
    Pokey - V3 (Peck)
     On the Northeast boulder.  Sit start in small pockets, and go up
     the obvious line.  Much harder than it looks.

  Walrus Boulder AKA The Walrus AKA R.W.P.
   UTM 13S 0316510 3761971
    ? - V1 tall, bad landing, scary
     Left end of East face of the Walrus, overhung wall with a big
     rock for a landing.
    ? - V1 tall, bad landing, scary
    ? - V1 tall, bad landing, scary
    Eskimo Walrus Love Song - B3 tall, bad landing, scary (Scott 5/4/2003)
     Sit start as per Rubber Walrus Protector, but go left around the
     arete and up the slopey face.  Loose holds up high!
    Rubber Walrus Protector - V5 tall, bad landing (Peck)
     Classic, beautiful line!  Sit start at the base of the crack on
     the North side of the boulder.  Go left up the big rounded prow
     on really bad-looking holds, then top out with the huecos.
    Direct Walrus - B2 tall, bad landing (Scott) contrived
     From the sit start of Rubber Walrus Protector, go straight up.  Holds
     to the left of the prow are off.
    Anti-Walrus - B1 tall (Scott)
     Super fun.  Sit start the rounded arete just right of Rubber
     Walrus Protector.  Ascend the arete.
    Walrus Slabs - V0-V3 tall, bad landing
     On the West face of the Walrus, several very nice slabby lines.

  Colon Blow Boulder
   Down and to the Southwest of The Walrus.
    Sofa King - V?
     Sit start as per Dark Fighter, but go taverse left and then go up.
    Dark Fighter - V6 semi-contrived
     On the Southeast side of the Colon Blow boulder.  Sit start in
     huecos, then go up and slightly left, but don't grab the big jug
     off to the right near the grass, instead use the slot in the face
     to go straight up over the rounded arete on crimps and dishes.
    Fart Lighter - V3
     Sit start just right of Dark fighter on a big shelf.  Go straight
    ? - V0 tall
     Left side of the huecoed face on the North side.
    Survival of the Weak - V3 tall, bad landing
     Sit start just right of the corner with a boulder at your back.
     crimps lead to jugs at about seven feet, then top out straight up.
    ? - V3 tall, bad landing
     Same sit start as above, but go right up the scoop for a harder and
     more dangerous top-out than the previous.
    Colon Blow - V0 tall, scary, bad landing (Peck)
     Up the left line of jugs on the West face.  Big rock at base.
    Super Colon Blow - V0+ tall, scary, bad landing (Peck)
     "You'd have to eat 5,000,000 bowls of ordinary bran cereal to get the
     fiber equivalent of one bowl of Super Colon Blow." - Saturday Night Live
     Up the right line of jugs.

  Fight Club Boulder
   UTM 13S 0316509 3761951
   Down the gully a few yards from Colon Blow.  I once found a half-full
   bottle of Jaegermeister in a snowbank here.
    Tyler Durden vs Tyler Durden - B2 (Scott)
     On the Southeast face, sit start, go right, and then up.
    Space Monkey - V5 (V3-V6) (Peck) bad landing
     "like a monkey ready to be shot into space" - Tyler Durden
     Far left of Eastern face.  Sit start and go straight up on finger
     pockets and side pulls.
    Fight Club - V10 bad landing (Jason Plaas)
     "The first rule of fight club is: you do not talk about fight
     club!" - Tyler Durden
     That worked about as well in the movie as it did at Box.  This
     problem enjoyed a brief period of notoriety.  For a while it
     seemed that every boulderer who came to Box would ask "Where is
     Fight Club?".  This is also the only problem in the world that
     Peck will insist is a mandatory finger tape-up.  It slices.
     Grab two widely-spaced bad holds, then slap out left to a sharp
     dish, make your bloody sacrifice, then go up.
    Project Mayhem - V7 (Peck) tall, bad landing
     "Worker bees can leave
     Even drones can fly away
     The queen is their slave." -Narrator
     Sit start in the slick Hueco, go up to crimps and go for the jug.
     Top out in good style.
    Bitch Tits - V1 (Peck) tall, bad landing
     "Bob.  Bob had bitch tits" -Narrator
     The line of holds going up the right end of the face, just left
     of the corner.
    Where Is My Mind - V0 tall
     The North wall is covered with good, solid, jugs.
    Air Hunger - V9 (Nathaniel)
     Start at the South end of the cave on the Northwest corner, and
     climb left and out the cave entrance.  Be careful for the bat who
     sometimes likes to winter in a slopey heuco here, don't disturb

  Below Fight Club
   Boulder just below Fight Club Boulder in the wash.
    ? - V4
     Sit start up the East dihedral.

  Super Easy Boulder
   Just Southeast of Colon Blow and East of Fight Club, small boulder
   riddled with good holds.  Many V0s!

 Behind Edges AKA Spedville
  The best way to get there: Take the trail to Unbeatable Boulder,
  Continue on the trail to Angela (Edges) Boulder, then follow the
  trail up the hill, past the Chalk Fairy Face (bolted routes and a
  crack) and past a few huge boulders (Chebacca and Girl Boulder).
  Now head Northeast to the base of the band of boulders on the side
  of the hill.  The trail follows the base to Billing's Gate.

   Boulder left of Billing's Gate
    ? - V?
     may not be sent yet.
    ? - V1 tall

   Above the Horizon Boulder
    UTM 13S 0316583 3762266
    Behind (to the Northwest of) Calm Horizons, and a little up the hill.
    Paul Can't Do This - V2 (V2-V3) contrived (Bob*)
     Thin dyno off two crimps to the bowl.  Either top out (tall, scary) or
     come down to the left.
    Jiggernut - V2 tall, scary (Bob*)
     Just to the right of Paul Can't Do This.  Pockets and edges
     straight up.  Either stupidly top out for maximum value or
     traverse down and left.

   Under the Horizon Boulder
    Just below the main Calm Horizons boulder
    Under Anathesia - V1 (Bob 2/18/2004)
     Sit start on the left end of the East face and go up and slightly right
     to the lip.
    Under the Horizon - V3 contrived
     "traverse harder than it looks don't touch the lip till the end" - Opie
     Sit start on the left end of the East face, traverse the seam
     right and up on thin holds all the way to the right end of the
    ? - V1 (2/18/2004 Colin)
     Sit start near the right end of the East face and go straight up
     the short slab.

   Down the hill a ways from Billing's Gate
    ? - V0
    ? - V1 (Greg 01/2004)
     Stand start near the left end of the East face, go straight up
     on thin and crispy holds.
    ? - V1
     Through the huge Hueco in the middle of the face.
    ? - V1
     "slab is harder than it looks" - Opie

   Up the hill a bit from that
    ? - V6?
     Sit start
    ? - V3
     "sit start on the bad lip holds looks impossible" - Opie

   Lynx Cave
    Up the hill from Billing's Gate.  Nice roof with lots of poop
    under it.

    UTM 13S 0316666 3762403
    "up and over the hill is a boulder with a less than desireable landing
    and a beautiful dyno.  The Outhouse" - Opie
    North face?

 Hidden Walls
  Hidden Wall North
   UTM 13S 0315580 3762360
   The short, overhanging crag you can see to the North from the Alf
   Rig parking lot.  A few bolted 5.11s, and some boudering.  Very
   unique, incredibly featured rock.  
   Rodney's Traverse - V1 bad landing (Andy* 10/6/96)
    Knee bar, section with huge jugs with no feet over a stone wall.
   BC (Bruce's Chimney) 5.2 (Bruce* 10/5/96
    In the back of one of the caves there is a natural chimney.
   Graffitti Dwellers - V2 (Andy* 10/5/96)
    Short Roof.

  Hidden Wall West
   UTM 13S 0315334 3762333
   Group of small boulders.  In the caves at the base are some good
   "Ochre Hands".  Don't disturb the hands.  Good bouldering above.

  Hidden Wall South AKA Sangre De Andre Wall
   North end at UTM 13S 0315744 3762284
   South end at UTM 13S 0315804 3762107 (real close to Alf Rig parking)
   This is a long, low-angle, wall West and parallel to the Major wall
   road.  There are dozens of easy to moderate top rope routes here,
   but no anchors and the rock does not protect well.  The Sangre De
   Andre route was marked for several years with a huge blood stain.
   Andy did a 5.8R/X trad route here off of which he took a forty-foot
   fall, creating the blood spot.  He came back to the route and
   finished it (with a helmet this time) and named it Sangre de Andre.
    Sangre de Lizard traverse 5.11+ (V3 cruxes, 1/8 mile) (Andy 10/5/96)
     "Bruce had us follow him on a long, long traverse going the length
     of hidden wall.  There was nothing too bad on the first section he
     had done, but as we got farther and farther along, we (I) passed a
     couple of sections that I recal as being about V3.  We'd be going
     along, and come up to blank sections.. I had to get off (or fall
     off) and look at them first before pumping through.  anyway.. at
     the end of the wall I think we had come at least 600 feet!  Oh
     yeah.. the name, Sangre de Lizard, came from the start of the
     problem.  There was a loose flake that I kicked to break it
     off.. As it fell, a freshly smashed lizard fell as well and died
     below... whoops.. 8*/" - Andy

 Alf Rig
  Parking: UTM 13S 0315833 3761972
  To get to Alf Rig, veer right at the road "Y" at Major wall.  Head
  up the road, through a gate, and switchback right to a mining scar.
  This is where Alf lived in his old school bus, running all of his
  computers from solar power.  Park here, and walk uphill and West to
  the North face of the hill.  Smooth boulders with powerful moves.

   American Beauty Boulder
    UTM 13S 0315553 3761934
    A tall boulder with a stunning North face, uphill from Slappin'
    the Captain and West of the Tortoise.  Named after the Grateful
    Dead album.  Problems on the North face.  It was here that I got
    to hear the Highway 395 Meth Hos story, from two of the
     Ripple - B1
      Start on the big shelf and go up and left the lichen-covered face.
     American Beauty - B2 tall, bad landing
      Start on the same big shelf and go up to the sloper.  The go right
      to the arete to top out.
     Candyman - B1 tall, bad landing
      Sit start on slopeys on the right side of the face.  Go straight up.

   Slappin' the Captain Boulder
    UTM 13S 0315563 3761945
    Just downhill (North) from American Beauty and East of Peck's Traverse.
     Slappin' the Captain - B2 V? (V6-V7) (Scott? Nathaniel?)
      Sit start on the right side of the little cave, do slappy moves
      left, and then turn the lip and go up the black streak in the
      bowl.  "I actaully tore a hamstring completetly in half on it,
      it still is missing thanks to Dr. 'Quack'.  Upon hearing my
      hamstring break (it sounded like a very large finger tendon
      breaking) Nathaniel exclaimed `That was the loudest sound I have
      ever heard produced by the human body, it actually made my ears
      hurt.`" -Peck (Doctor's name removed until legal advice sought)
     The Blunt Connection variation - B2 (Scott)
      Do Slappin' the Captain but go up the arete.
     Pattin' the Robertson - B1 (Scott)
      Sit start as Slappin' the Captain but go straight up.

    Peck's Traverse Boulder
     Peck's Traverse - V1 Peck
      Sit Start on the North (downhill) end of the boulder.  Do weird
      moves left and up until it gets too silly.

    Warmup Boulder
     A few feet East of the start to Peck's Traverse is a short wall
     with some nice B0s and B1s.

    Tortoise Boulder
     Just West of American Beauty is a boulder with several tortoise
     simulcra on it.
      The Tortoise - V2 B1
       On the right side of the North face, sit start and work left,
       turn the lip, and go up the face.  Variations go up the arete.
       Sound like Slappin' the Captain?  You bet!  They are similar
       problems, But these are *much* easier.
      Terrapin Station - B1 (Scott)
       Continuing the Dead theme.  Sit start in the little cave on the
       West face.  Go straight up over the shelf and overhanging,
       short, blank face.
      Terrapin Traverse - B? (Scott)
       Same start as Terrapin Station, but go right and up.
      Terrapin Arete - B1
       Go up the slappy arete.  Funky top out.

   Lightbulb Boulder
    Just to the West and Uphill from The Tortoise Boulder.
     Lightbulb - B?
      Sit start on the North face, go left to the lightbulb simulcra,
      then top out left.    
     Boneyard - B?
      Just to the right of the Lightbulb.

    Operation Idaho Freedom Boulder
     Just uphill (South) from American Beauty and just East of the
     Lightbulb.  Worked during the Gulf War Sequel.
      Colon Powell - B1 bad landing (Scott 3/31/2003)
       Go straight up over the slab landing.
      Defense Secretary Bumsfelt - B0 (Bob 3/31/2003)
       Sit start, and go up and right just right of Colon Powell.

    Scott's V9 - V? (Scott)
    Balloon - V? (Nathaniel)
    The Red Crystals in my Kidneys - V? (Peck)

 Dog Ball Banana Wall
  UTM 13S 0315023 3762579
  Whilst preparing to go bouldering, Paul and ? were eating snacks
  and playing hacky with the dog's rubber ball.  A good kick sent the
  ball directly onto Paul's peeled banana.  Immediately upon heading
  to Box, they discovered this wall.  DBBW (say that three times
  fast) is found about a half mile up the arroyo that flows by
  Waterfall.  It is close to privately-owned land, so behave.
    Chocolate Salty Balls - V4 (Peck)
    ? - V2 tall
     Boulder down from the North end of the wall.  Go up the left side of
     West face.
    ? - V3 (Spud? Bob)
     Roof problem to Datil-like North face.
    ? - V1 tall
    ? - V1 tall
    ? - V0 tall
     The crack.
    ? - V? tall, bad landing
     The rounded arete.
    ? - V0 tall, bad landing
     The dihedral.
    ? - V2 tall, bad landing, scary
     Go up the center of the face over the roof.
    ? - V3 tall, bad landing
     Start just left of the polished prow, above the big overhang.
     Crank to a triangular hold, then straight up the crack with a
     plant in it.
    ? - V4 bad landing
     Sit start at the back of the cave, powerful moves to the jugs at the cave
     entrance.  Go up the slab to top out.
    ? - V0 tall
    Dog Ball Banana - V? tall, bad landing, scary (Jake)
     Just right of the dihedral is a scary sloper problem.
    ? - V0 tall
     Up the rounded stuff on the face.
    Homobanterphilia - V2
     Go up the left side of the North face of the Southern Boulder.
     Named after a certain individual who got freaked by an explicitly
     homosexual conversation here.
    ? - V0
     Go straight up the middle of the North face of the South boulder
    ? - V1 bad landing
     Sit start in the hole between the South boulder and the wall.  Work Left,
     then go up the jugs and over the lip.

 The Scrotum
  Between DBBW and Mesquite BBQ, near Hidden Wall North.
   The Scrotum - V4 bad landing
    Sit start, go up to two horrible slopers, top out.
   The boulder just North and down from the Scrotum has a
   number of good problems, notably:
   The Angry Bag - V2 - bad landing (Bob 3/20/2004)
    Left end, go up slippery arete from sit start
    Sit start, use bad hold to gain chickenhead, top out.
    Sit start, use steeply angling shelf to get to the top.
    Stand start, go straight up.
    Sit start just right of the arete on horrible crimpers.  Crimp
    to the jug just below the lip and top out.

 Mesquite Barbeque Wall
  UTM 13S 0315223 3762207
  You are practically in someone's backyard here, so behave and
  stay low profile.  Lots of tall, scary problems on a juggy wall.
  Thorny mesquite landings.
   I Fudged Your Mama - V? very tall (Peck)
    Middle of the West face.
   Getting Gay with Kids - V? very tall, crux at top (Peck)
    Also middle of the West face.        
   Highway 395 Meth Hos - V? (Scott)
    Three young men lost some of their innocence to older women in
    Bishop, California.
    Towards the left side of the wall, seperate boulder with an overhanging
    Northwast face.  Sit start on this face and go up.

  Inflatable Hitler Wall
  Directly across from Mesquite BBQ wall.
   Toad Licking Perverts - V? (Peck)
   Inflatable Hitler - V? (Peck)
   5 other lines, according to Peck.

 Monkey Bars
  From Alcohol Wall, you can see an outcropping of rock up the hill to
  the North.  There is some neat stuff on this, but the coolest is the
  Monkey Bars area, on the East side.  A ventana, or natural window in
  the rock, marks the bottom of the wall.

  ** WARNING: there is an active beehive in one of the huecos! 4/28/2003 **

   ? - V5 tall, scary
    ** WARNING: as of the time of this writing, 4/28/2003, the starting
    hold for this problem contains an active beehive! **
    Sit start in a juggy hueco, then work your way up to the line of
    heucos, and exit right as above.
   ? - V3 tall, scary
    Start on a big sidepull, go up and left to the line of huecos, then
    exit right on the ledge.
   ? - V2 tall
    Start on little pockets and edges, go to the obvious hueco, and then
    straight up.
   ? - V1 tall
    Sit start on two underclings left of the cave, and go right to the
    chimney and straight up it.
   Super Monkey Collider - V3 tall, scary, bad landing (Ben W.)
    Super classic.  The arete on the right side of the main wall.  Sit
    start left of the little cave on two underclings, then go up and
    right to the arete and crank up it.
   ? - V?
    sit start to crimpy roof holds.
   ? - V?
    short problem on the far right side.
   Monkey Bars - V1 bad landing (Steve R.)
    Very spiffy.  Keep going uphill from the main wall.  Big huecos
    appear in an overhanging face.  Use gymnastic moves to climb this
    classic jug haul over a slab landing.

 South of Box
  UTM 13S 0315372 3760459
  A mile or two South of Major Wall, west facing cliff band up on a
  hill South of the road.  Big pockets in roofs but can be loose.

  Other miscellany, Peck's two canyons (Cibola NF or BLM?).

The Dingleberries
 These short walls can be seen to the Northwest from the base of
 Sedillo hill on US60.  The best approach is to go to the top of
 Sedillo hill and pull in to the parking area.  Go through the
 unlocked gate from the parking area, and drive east, past the power
 line road, to the end of the two-track road.  Park here and hike East
 to the boulders.  You'll find them.

Spook Canyon (BLM)
 Spook parking UTM 13S 0317032 3763718
 Don't drive up the steep hill.  Although the sign is missing, this
 road is closed by the BLM.
 During a particularly wet summer one year, the stream flowed for a
 few weeks.  It was really nice to boulder amongst the flowers while
 the stream gurgled.  As a bonus, the Biting Bugs of Box never got bad
 that year.

 ? Boulder
  The first boulder you come to at the top of the hill.  The lower
  branch of the Y in the trail goes next to the uphill side.
   ? - V1 bad landing
    Left side of the East face.  Go up and right following the right
    side of the arete.  Ankle breaker rock below the top out.
   ? - V1
    Right side of the East face.  Sit start in a big pocket and go straight
    up.  Harder if you off the big rock to the left, V0 if you stand

 Beer Bucket Boulder
  Large boulder just Southwest of Warmup Boulder.  Two bolts on top.
   No Excuses - V4 (Peck)
    Right side of East Face.  Sit start on icky holds, and go straight up.
    Alex did this one in a leg cast; so even a broken leg is no excuse!
   Elephant Seal - V2 (Barrett 6/25/2003)
    Sit start on the huge undercling under the big bulge sticking East
    out of the bouder, just right of No Excuses.  Climb straight up and
    over the giant seal's head.
   Clouds Mean Death - V2 (Bob 5/29/2003)
    "We were always told that clouds meant death in the mountains, so
    everytime we'd see a little cloud, we'd ask our guide, 'does that
    cloud mean death?', and he'd say, 'no, probably not that one'"
    - Todd Skinner at slide show in Socorro, around 1994
    Just right and around the corner from No Excuses, sit start on two
    pockets under a short overhang.  Up and left and over the lip.
   Beer Bucket - V0 tall, scary
    Go straight up the middle of the North face.  Originally
    bouldered, this is also top-ropable at 5.8 with a good, two-bolt
    anchor on top.  "lovely fun much better without a rope" - Peck
   ? - V0- tall
    The arete on the right side of the beer bucket face
   ? - V0 tall
    Just right of the arete on the left side of the West face.  Fun
    jug haul.
   I Spy - V2 (Rob 7/22/2003)
    Right side of West face, directly under the point that sticks out.
    Sit start on crimps, slap the sidepull and fire over the point.
   The Sausage Grinder - V3 (Bob 7/22/2003)
    In a little alcove in the South face.  Sit start and reach left to
    a sharp hold, then go for the slopers on the lip and pull over.
    Grinds your little sausages.
   Beer Bucket Butthole - V2 bad landing (Rob 7/22/2003)
    To the right on the South face.  Sit start in a small hueco and
    go straight up.  Top out.

 The V-4s AKA Heavy Metal Boulder AKA ?
  UTM 13S 0316776 3763581
  Just West of Warm Up Rock, about 30 feet East of the main wall.
   Mesquite Variation? -  V4 (Joel? Nathaniel?)
    Same start as Judas Priest, but go left on crimps over a mesquite bush.
   Judas Priest - V4 (Peck)
    On the left side of the South-facing face.  Sit start to freaky mantle.
   The Eric Scully V7 - V4 (V4-V7) (Peck)
    In the middle of the South-facing face.
    Sit start on a sidepull and an undercling hole.  Go straight up
    over the lip and top out.
    Squat start on the low holds for the most fun.  Sit start makes
    you want to poop your pants but doesn't add any difficulty.
    Eric Scully seemed like a teenage prodigy in the late 90's.  The
    proud youth had supposedly redpointed 8b+ (5.14a/b) at age 13 and
    had a long list of incredible acheivements by age 15.  However, he
    could not do this problem, claiming that it was "at least V7
    (~7c)".  He went on to compete all over the world with
    dissapointing results, lost all of his sponsors and disappeared
    from the competition scene just after the turn of the century.
    Were his early accomplishments mere fabrications and
    exaggerations, or did he just peak early?  And where is he now?
    Hopefully, still enjoying the rock somewhere...
    Peck had given this one V4 (and the consensus grade as of 2003 is
    hard V4 almost V5) but didn't have a name for it.  People would
    refer to it as "that Peck problem that Eric Scully insisted was V7"
    and thus it eventually became The Eric Scully V7.
   Heavy Metal - V3 (Andy*)
    Sit start in the hole with both hands in the hueco.  Go left
    through slopers and bad feet to then crank the lip.
    rediscovered this problem a few years after Andy did it (although
    Andy neglected to name it), but there was no chalk on it by then,
    so he named it something really cool that no one can remember.
    Anyway, it's such a classic line that it was probably done first
    long ago...
   ? - V1
    Same start as Heavy Metal but go straight up.
   ? - V3
    Start as above but do the goofy butt-dragger gut-wrencher traverse
    and then go up just left of the arete.
   Gummy Ratt - V3 (Bob*)
    The loose rock is gonna knock someone's teeth out.
    On the left side of the West overhanging face just behind Spook wall.
    Powerful sit start on underclings.  Work onto the loose stuff and huck
    for the lip.
   Locnar - V1
    Sit start and pull jugs and sidepulls left to the jugs at the lip.

 Warm Up Rock
   ? AKA Spudnip - V2 (Peck)
    Sit start on a sidepull, crank to slopers and crimps, finish on the
   The Smell of Beer - V? tall, scary, very bad landing (Peck)
    From the traverse start on the Northeast corner, go straight up
    the North face over the very bad landing.  Peck may have had
    chemical assistance to build up the neccessary gumption, hence the
    name.  A variant goes right on the traverse to crimps, then
    dyno and top out over hideous block landing.
    "A fall off of either would be like landing in a giant blender" - Peck
   Spook Traverse Wimpout Version - V1 (V1-V9) tall, bad landing
    Sit start down on the Northeast corner.  Cruise up and right all
    the way to the wide crack, then up the crack to top out.
   Spook Traverse Wimpy Version - V1 (V1-V9) tall, bad landing
    Instead of going up the crack, keep going around the corner and go
    up the juggy West face.  This whole face is fun at V0-V1.
   Spook Warmup AKA Spook Traverse V1 (V1-V9) tall, bad landing, scary
    Keep going right, until you are at the Southwest corner.  Go up
    on small crimps to top out.

 Cowshit Cave
  Overhang on main wall just West of Beer Bucket Boulder.
   Devlin's Demise AKA ? - V? (Jake)
    A very large block came off the wall here and took most of the good
    holds with it.
   Rubberband Fingers - V8 (V7-V8) (Jake)
    "***" - Opie
    Dihedral straight up.  Small crimps and a dyno.
   Meine Gummi Frau - V10 (Jake)
    Sit start to Rubberband Fingers.  Starts just to the right, up on
    desperate holds, and traverses left into the undercling/sidepull
    to finish up Rubberband Fingers.  Originally a Peck line, Jake's
    ascent put the spurs to Peck, and anger fueled Peck's immediate
    second ascent.
   Vulgar Display of Power - V? (Scott)
   Wake and Bake - V3 (V3-V5) tall
    Sit start on jugs to the right.  Traverse left on good holds to a
    block.  go up and left below a scoop to a jug haul straight up.
    Loop right, back down to the scoop and downclimb down to the

 French Ethics
  13S 0316813 3763560
   French Ethics - V4
    Sit start and straight up.
   ? - V0
    Right behind French Ethics, stand start and crank sharp pockets.
   ? - V?
    Just to the right.  Sit start and go up/right, top out straight up.

 All Done Boulder
  13S 0316831 3763523
  Just up the wash from French Ethics.  The down is the East-facing
  ramp (V0-).
  "a cube with many V0s and V1s none named all done" - Opie
  to which I reply:
   All Done - V2 tall (Bob)
    Sit start on the North face on an overhanging block.  Slippery and
    powerful start to a juggy top out.
   ? - V0
    Fairly obvious line on the left side of the South face, Fun and just
    a little sharp.
   Polly Prissy Pants - V3 semi-contrived (Bob 1/25/2003)
    In the middle of the South face, use poor holds to gain the
    undercling shelf.  Milk the tiny edge in the blank face and top
    out.  The big shelf a few feet to the right is off-route.

 Flounder Boulder
  South of Cowshit Cave.
   Hooked Flounder - V?
    "as the name implies a belly flop may be required" - Opie

 Upper Spook
  UTM 13S 0316719 3763413
   Warm and Fuzzy - V? (Peck)
    Start down in the hole and come out the roof.
    "Tape your left fuck you finger or you'll regret it." - Peck
   Better Than Life - V2 bad landing (Peck)
    Overhanging face up left in the South-facing wall the trail goes under.
   Red Dwarf - V? (Nathaniel)
    Starts immediately over the trail.  Long reaches between small, sharp
    holds on a beautiful red face.
   Tempting Fate - V? (Peck)
    "Aslo ontop of BTL boulder head down to edge look R, there is
    "Tempting Fate" (peck) self-explanitory." - Peck
  The other problems are on the short wall to the South.
   ? - V1
    The far left problem on the East face.  Sit start back under the
    roof in the crack.  Work out and left to the slopey top out.
   ? - V1
    In the middle of the East-facing face.  Sit start on funky blocks,
    then go straight up.
   Brain Scan - V5 (Nathaniel)
    Just left of Crub Jaw, super sloper problem straight up.
   Curb Jaw - V9 (Peck)
   Brown Noise - V9 (Peck)
  A little further up the canyon:
   Fifty Little Black Guys - V? (Nathaniel)
    Describing an ant attack.

 Virgin Area

 Substance P
  UTM 13S 0316772 3763619
   Substance P - V8 (V8-V10) bad landing, scary (Peck)
    The obvious line of sharp holds up the stunning overhanging face
    on the North side.  Sit down start, work up to a big, slick hueco,
    top out just to the left of the hueco.
    Substance P is a nueromodulator that acts on the transmission of
    pain stimuli.  Liberate your Substance P with this...  or just do
    what most people do and eat some extra hot green chile instead
    (capsaicin, the active ingredient in hot chiles, acts directly on
    the Substance P in your sensory nuerons.  One theory holds that
    the subsequent endorphin release is what makes both chile and nice
    sharp holds both so wonderful and so addictive.).

 Wallflower Wall Bouldering
  UTM 13S 0316715 3763802
   ? - V0 tall
    Go up the slab on the leaning block.  Downclimb on the back.
   ? - V1 tall
    Go up the right side of the block.  Two bolts on the face.
   ? - V4
    Sit start in the right end of the cave, work out the crack right and up.
   ? - V1 tall
    Up the blank-looking face just left of the Wallflower cave.
   Tipsy - V1 tall, scary (Bob)
    Just left, go up good holds to a bowl and top out.

Grotto, Chupadera Spring (BLM) and Cow Crag (Private)
 Cow Crag is the Northern end of the band of rock and hills East of
 Spook.  US60 cuts through it, and the Spook road meanders the valley
 between these hills and the Box/Spook Canyon hill system.  The Grotto
 and Chupadera Spring are waterfalls where the washes go over a band
 of underlying Box-like rock.  They are both just East of the Cow Crag
  Cow Crag North
   North of the highway.  On EMRTC land, off-limits to us.  Some
   bouldering and extremely short routes.  Andy did some stuff here
   around 1995.
  Cow Crag South
   UTM 13S 0318158 3763898
   Private land (Access?) Some short trad routes at low angle.  More
   Andy routes ca. 1995.  Up the hill to the South lots of easy and
   some very hard bouldering (Scott?)
   UTM 13S 0318289 3762681
   Down the wash from the tank.  Some good bouldering (Names?) and one
   5.11+ bolted route.  High-schooler party spot, Often graffitied and
   littered with cheap beer cans.
    ? - V3
     Sit start, go left and up.
  Chupadera Spring
   UTM 13S 0318623 3763411
   The next big canyon North of the Grotto.  A few routes including an
   easy bolted route, and bouldering of dubious quality.

Enchanted Tower (Cibola National Forest)
 Wait for Sal's book, or just go out and play.  There's a suprising amount
 of quality bouldering under Mother Goose Wall.

Monster Island and Kong's Playground (Cibola National Forest)
 UTM 13S 0225287 3795505 US60 turnoff
 UTM 13S 0225065 3801801 Park here
 Small, remote bouldering areas.  The rock is similar to the stuff
 at the Enchanted tower, but less featured and more devious.
 US60 Between Datil and Pie Town, Mile marker 65, North on Forest road
 6A about three miles.  This road can get slick and muddy after a
 rain.  After passing Monument Rock (a nice free-standing pinnacle)
 look for a good place to park on the road.  Looking East, you'll see
 some really neat rock formations, with a jumble of boulders on side
 of the hill to the left.  That is Monster Island, about 3/4 mile
 hike.  To the West you can see big boulders peeking through the
 trees.  One of those is Kong's Playground.
  Jet Jaguar Boulder
   UTM 13S 0226126 3801788
   "A robot created by scientist Goro Ibuki"
   Jet Jaguar helped Godzilla fight Megalon.
   If you approached Monster Island correctly, this is the first good
   boulder you come to.
   ? - V2 tall, scary
    On the small, Northwest face, first crank jugs straight up to a bad
    sloper, then straight up to top out.
   ? - V0 tall
    The arete just to the right of the above.
   ? - V0 tall, scary
    Follow the licheny slopers and jugs to the lip.
   ? - V0 tall, scary
    Another licheny highball, just left of the arching break.
   ? - V3 tall
    Sit start sidepulling the arching break.  Go right, up the arch,
    and then reach up to good holds.
   ? - V3 tall
    Sit start on the small South face, go up and left and top out the left side
    of the face.
   ? - V2 tall
    Sit start on the right side of the small South face, then go up and left
    to top out the right side of the face.
   ? - V4
    On the East face is a slopy, crimpy problem that tops out under a tree
    that has fallen on the rock.
  Vampire Cave
   UTM 13S 0226148 3801788
   Look for the old frying pan.  Harder stuff around the corner to the North.
    ? - V5 tall
     Sit start at Golden, but traverse left and then straight up to
     top out.
    Golden - V4 tall
     Super fun.  Sit start on two holds.  Follow the jugs up and then
     left to a big hueco on the left side of the slab.  Top out the
    ? - V3 tall
     Sit start on the right side of the face.  Mantle the lip and go up
     the slab.
  Frankenstien Wall
   UTM 13S 0226167 3801788
   A long, South-facing, slightly overhung, asthetically pleasing wall
   with small holds.  Cool problems!
    Left Frankenstien - V4
    Middle Frankenstien - V4
     Shares the start with Left Frankenstien.
    Right Frankenstien - V7? tall
     Crimps to an improbable sloper, then tops out.
  Boulder Solo wall
   Just East of Frankstien wall is a tall boulder.  Some of Peck's tall
   boulder problems have been bolted.  Some individuals stole these hangars
   from New Canyon in the Manzanos and chopped down a tree at the base
   of the boulder, just to bolt a scrappy boulder problem?
   UTM 13S 0226230 3801819
   A small boulder just on the North side of a ridge.  Three lines on the
   West side
   ? - V1 (Rob 5/11/2003)
    Sit start, go up the left side arete.
   Dinkhole - V1 (Rob 5/11/2003)
    Sit start, go up the face on jugs.
   ? - V1 (Rob 5/11/2003)
    Sit start, go up the right side of the right arete.
  Kong's Playground
   UTM 13S 0224091 3801506
   (there is a beautiful natural arch near UTM 13S 0224029 3801380)
   Kong - V4
    Kickin' mantle problem.  Start right of Kong's foot.

 Bursom Springs (BLM, Private)
  Cool roof problems on Limestone, sometimes over pools of water, some
  approaching solo height.  Some short boulder problems.

 Reefer Canyon (The Reef) (BLM, NM)
  Park here: UTM 13S 0335846 3772639
  Drive out the Quebradas road until it starts going South.  After
  about 1/2 mile of South driving, look for a wash cutting across the
  road.  The road should start going uphill for a ways immediately
  after the wash.  Park on the side of the road.  Do not drive up the
  wash as this is a restricted vehicle use area.  Use caution, this
  area has flash floods several times a year.  Walk East up the wash
  about 2 1/4 miles.  You will enter a large limestone canyon.  The
  boulders and walls in the bottom of the canyon can have excellent
  Slabby Warmup Rock
   UTM 13S 0338178 3773240
   One of the first rocks as you head up the canyon.  Easy, super low-angle
   but fun.
    ? - V0
    ? - V0
    ? - VO
  Bum Boulder
   UTM 13S 0338190 3773247
   Just behind Slabby Warmup
    ? - V1
     Grab the shelf on the East face and go up on small cuts.
    ? - V?
     Just right of the arete on the North face.
    ? - V2
     Middle of the North face.  Power up to a jug and a sharp thing,
     then to the top.
  Dimple Face
   UTM 13S 0338219 3773282
   South-facing short boulder, covered in dimples.
    Dimple Face - V0 (Bob 1/1/2003)
     Straight up the middle.
   UTM 13S 0338226 3773298
    Lambcakes - V2 (Bob 1/1/2003)
     Sit start on square cut hold on the East face and go straight up.
  Dirty Little Boulder
   UTM 13S 0338237 3773305
   South side of canyon.
    ? - V3 (Chris 12/28/2002)
     Start on slick things on East side, crank over the lip.
    ? - V? (Chris 12/28/2002)
     Start on slick things as above, but slap out right to the other lip,
     then mantle your way to dirty bliss.
   Madness Boulders
    South side of canyon.
     Reefer Madness - V? (Scott 12/2002)
      Start back in the cave.  Use slick and sharp things to get up
      to the slabby face, the top out right.
     Space Madness - V3 (Bob 12/2002)
      Start on a wonderful slot and undercling, then either go straight over
      the point or go out right to top out.
   Pain Boulders
    At the waterfall/pond, South side of the Canyon.  Obvious, stunning.
     Pain Barrier - V4 (Scott 12/2002)
      You'll have to break the pain barrier to finish this one.  On
      the Northeast corner of the right boulder of the jumble.  Throw
      for the sloping shelf, then straight over the top.  Look for
     ? - V? (Peck 12/28/2002)
      The 45 degree face right of the Pain Barrier boulder.  Crimps and
      sharp things.  Nightmare sharp top out.
     ? - V0 tall (Paul 12/2002)
      All the way right, on the boulder with the huge loose block with plants
      growing out of it.
   Red Zone Cuba
    On the Southern side of the canyon, two large squarish reddish boulders.
     Cigar Smuggler - V2-3 (Colin 12/05/2003)
      Sit start on the left side of the East face of the East boulder,
      on a two-handed slick rail.  Go up the face.
     Castro? - V3 (Scott 12/2002)
      Sit start on the big ledge, work left and up to top out between
      the two boulders.  For the grade and maximum enjoyment, the
      giant shelf is off.
     Red Zone Cuba - V0 (Bob 12/2002)
      In the middle of the right boulder, easy straight up.
    A tall face on the North side of the Canyon, with a crack running all
    the way from ground to top.
     Mini-Thins - V3? tall, scary, crux at top (Scott 12/2002)
      Follow the crack all the way to the top on tiny crimpers.
   Elephant Area
    A wide face on the South side of the Canyon, with many V0 to V2s,
    mostly good landings and fairly solid rock.  Above this wall is
    a cougar cave, where we have found mountain lion tracks, and the fur
    of prey.
   The Elephant
    On the other side of the Canyon as the Warmup Area, a tall boulder.
    Downclimb on the back (North side).
     Elephant - V1 tall
      Go up the Arete.
     Elephant Riders - V3 tall, scary (Scott)
      Sit start on the middle of the East face of The Elephant, cool
      double mantle problem.
    Just a few yards East of the Elephant, there is a small boulder with
    an overhanging face.
      The Body of John Wilkes Booth - V4 (Scott)
      Sit start on the overhang, crank to a sloper and top out.
   Smarts Area
    UTM 13S 0338747 3773404
    The nice walls on the North side of the wash, East of Elephant
    on the way to Pirate's Cove.
     Dr Oddman - V0 (Bob 12/05/2003)
      Go up the left-leaning dihedral.
     Blood Donor - V2 semi-contrived (Colin 12/05/2003)
      Start on the tan face just right of the dihedral, go up and over
      the arete.  Dihedral is off-route.
   Pirate's Cove
    A silly short wall on the North side of the canyon.  There is a
    tree on the South side, and the streambed cuts through the rock
     Booty - V0 (Bob 1/1/2003)
      "Professor, what's another word for pirate treasure?"
      Sit start on the big square block.
     Captain Crunch - V1 (Colin 12/05/2003)
      Sit start on finger slots and slick feet, and crank your way up.
     Carribean Sea - V0 (Bob 1/1/2003)
      Strangely beautiful holds.  Follow the line of rounded jugs up.
     Portugese Man-of-War - V3 (Bob 1/1/2003)
      Slick feet!  Sit start on edges, crank to the hole and top out.
     Seven of Oceans - V3 contrived (Bob 1/1/2003)
      "Here we are, seven of oceans
      Great divide conquers emotions, for good
      Drives in car, transfers allegiance to land
      Looks to land's earthen embrace" - Tom Ellard
      Traverse below the lip from left of Booty to right of Portugese
      Man-of-War, or go the other way, or lap it!
   Wall South of Pirate's Cove
    Just South of Pirate's Cove, on the 35 foot limestone wall
    of the canyon, are some compelling lines.
     ? - V0- very tall (Colin 12/05/2003)
      Just right of the right hand squarish roof is this very tall
      slabby route.  Originally done to scope the top out for the

Riley (BLM, State, Private)

 Sandstone and some limestone around a remote ghost town.  Getting to
 Riley involves long drives on dirt roads, river crossings that can
 get serious depending on rain/snow fall, slow dusty driving on steep
 hills with blind curves.  During dry conditions the roads are
 generally very good and passable with a typical passenger car, but
 they can get bad quickly for even serious four-wheel-drives.  There
 is no gas, food, or potable water for public use.  The nearest
 hospital (Socorro) is over an hour away in the best of road
 conditions.  A high-clearance vehicle with a hand winch
 ("come-a-long") and shovel, several extra quarts of water, food, and
 a comprehensive first-aid kit are highly recommended.

 There is a complex pattern of private/BLM/state land here, so new
 development needs to be cautious.  I would recommend not developing
 anything on private land.

 To get to Riley:

 Method 1: take Exit 175 off I25 (Bernardo) and go West.  County-level
 maps of the area are highly recommended for this route, but it's
 probably the fastest way to get here from the North.  Follow the main
 road Southwest, past the RV park and across the Rio Puerco on a cool
 old bridge.  The road turns to dirt at the Sevilleta gate turnoff,
 then goes Northwest, West, and finally South, curving around Los
 Ladrones (the rugged, rocky mountain).  Eventually, after about 29
 miles of dirt road, you will hit the Fork (you'll know the Fork when
 you see it).

 Method 2: Go to Magdalena and turn North of US60 at Evett's Cafe.
 after about 200yds you will see a brown sign and a turn to the
 right marked for Riley.  After about 19 miles, you will hit the Rio
 Salado with the Fork just North of the river.

 Method 3: Go to Magdalena and turn North of US60 on the road to Alamo
 Indian Reservation.  After a few miles, turn right (North) on FR123.
 After a few more miles, you will see a turn to the right (East) with
 a brown sign for Riley.  Go about six or seven miles to the Fiesta
 Boulders, and two miles or so to the Fork.

 Rio Salado Boulders
  These may be your only option if you're coming from Magdalena and
  the rivers are too deep to drive across.  Don't worry, they are
  great!  On the West side of the Rio Salado, just North of the right
  turn to cross the river to get to the ghost town, and just South of
  the river crossing near the Fork.  On the West side of the road on
  the side of the hill are many tan-brown boulders.
  Warmup Boulder
   Yet another Warmup Boulder.  Nice vertical tan and brown face on Southeast.
   UTM 13S 0294614 3807045
    ? - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003)
     Sit start, straight up over loose block.
    ? - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003)
     Sit start, up over two shelfs.
    ? - V0+ (Colin 12/14/2003)
     Stand start in the middle.
    ? - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003)
     Sit start on right side, go up jugs and top out.
    Hotpad - V0 (Bob 12/14/2003)
     Sit start on far right side, traverse left and up to left end, 
     top out on left block.  I liked it a lot.
  Dead Tree Wall
   Up the hill to the Northwest, dead tree on top of overhung face.
   UTM 13S 0294576 3807057
    ? - V1 (Colin 12/14/2003)
     Sit start on left side, powerful move up to a jug and top out.
    ? - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003)
     Sit start and climb through the gritty hueco to top out.
    Sticks - V1 (Bob 12/14/2003)
     Sit start on jugs, go the the lip and pull over.  Super
     fun with a funky top out.
    Root Down - V1 (Bob 12/14/2003)
     Sit start on far right end, traverse left across juggy face, top out
     on far left.  Fun moves on (moslty) positive jugs.
  Coffee notch
   Looking South from Dead Tree Wall, there is a notch of dark rock.
   Lots of nice easy stuff, some serious highballs over bad landings
   at the South opening.
  Monkey Love Boulder
   Just East of Coffee Notch, large boulder with a cool overhang on Southeast
   UTM 13S 0294624 3807017
    Slope and Crimp Monkey Love - V3 tall, bad landing (Colin 12/14/2003)
     Grab jugs under the roof, work left and up onto the large dark
     brown face, top out.  Super good.
    Patina Wall - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003)
     Just East of Monkey Love Boulder smaller boulder with nice holds on
     light tan East face.
  Foot Boulder
   East of Patina wall, short powerful roof with poor landing.
    Auto-ped-anal-eroticism - V2? very bad landing (Colin 12/14/2003)
     Short problem starting at lower lip of roof.

 Mosquito(?) Boulders

 Fiesta Boulders
  UTM 13S 0291846 3808343
  After crossing Rio Salado going North, turn left at fork, cross
  Salado again, look for CR12A going left.  Obvious large boulders.
  Ugly 'Viva Fiesta "91"' grafitti.  The rock is more solid than it
  looks, but unpredictably brittle.

Water Canyon (Cibola National Forest)
 About 15 miles West of Socorro on US60 is a signed turnoff for Water
 Canyon Campground, FR235.  Drive 4.5 miles up a paved road to the
 campground, this is a good place to park.  The big cliffs are too
 loose to climb, and are host to nesting falcons, so don't go messin'
 'round up there.  However, the boulders in the valley near the
 campground can be pretty good, but some may be on private land.
 Watch for bees and wasps, who like to nest in the rocks.  The rock
 can be loose, but the weather is generally cooler than Box and there
 are less bugs in the summer.

  Nilla's Wafers
   UTM 13S 0303723 376938
   This is one of the obvious clumps of boulders that can be seen from
   the road.  Park at Water Canyon campground and walk East to avoid
   trespassing on private land.
    Chasing Hadia - V0 tall, scary, bad landing (Nilla)
     On the tall boulder above the main group, just East of a large tree.
     Sit start, go straight up the North corner.
    Nilla Wafer - V2 bad landing (Bob)
     Sit start back in little cave, one hard move to jugs and a funky top
    Soggy Biscuit - V3 (Bob)
     Just right of Nilla Wafer, sit start on a big scary hollow flake, top
     out over cactus.

  Mars Hotel
   UTM 13S 0303702 3766833
   The most obvious set of boulders that can be seen from the road,
   with a large lightning-scarred tree on top.  Park at Water
   Canyon campground and walk East to avoid trespassing on private

  Hippy Tie-dye Boulders
   UTM 13S 0303464 3766523
   Up a gully to the South of the campground.
    Loose Lucy Is My Delight - V? (Scott 6/8/2003)
     The steep face.  Loose holds.
    Beef Curtain Traverse - V? (Scott 6/8/2003)
     Sit start on the right (downhill) side of the Ease face.  Go left
     until you're standing on a slab, then top out.
    Beef Sashimi - V3 (Bob 6/8/2003)
     Same sit start, but upon reaching the end of the bulge, cheese out and
     go straight up to a positive hold, then slab on out the top.
  Terrifying Boulder
   Further up the gully: loose, compelling boulder solos up to 30 feet high.

  Roadside Boulders
   Up the Langmuir road a mile or two are some boulders on the South side
   of the road near the stream.  Dirty and loose, but some fun stuff.

  Trail 10 boulders
   Up on trail 10 just before the collapsed cabin are a few good boulders.
   Several V0 to V2 problems, often dirty and spiderwebby.

  Front Boulders
   Park opposite the FR235 sign.  Hike up and West, past a ruin and a
   wash.  The hillside has boulders hidden amongst the trees.
     "Possibly the finest boulder problem... anywhere"

East Red Canyon
Rattlesnake Canyon

updated February 18th, 2004
Bob Broilo