A list of excellent problems (three star) for the guide intro or somesuch: Monkey Bars Juggernaught Left Roof Terrapin Arete Meine Gummi Frau Rubber Walrus Protector Totally Happy Camper Handlebar Willy Bitch Tits Colon Blow Golden The Big Red One Monzer Perfect Hair Forever Chewbacca Pressure Drop Elephant Riders The Marble Beer Bucket The Scrotum Fright Wig American Beauty The Lightbulb Center Frankenstien Chocolate Salty Balls Heavy Metal ***V2 Fingerfucker San Mateo Mountains: Barrett's Boulderfield - Peck, Bob, Colin 2004 12 miles South of the VLA, the large boulderfield East of NM52 up on the side of the hill. Mostly choss, but if you look around you'll find enough good boudering to make it worth the trip. Some potential for hard sport lines on solid rock on the South side. Point of Rocks - Bob, Colin 6/2005 13S0254467 3758502 11 miles South of the VLA turn off NM52 onto unmarked road with obvious chossy boulders in tree-filled arroyo. 4x4 or hike ~2miles to Point of Rocks Tank. Red rock has some problems and Boulders to the South can be very good, pockets similar to Streambed. Sargeant Canyon - Bob, Colin 6/2005 The Ash Hole Take US60 West from Socorro to the VLA turnoff (NM52). Go South to FR476. Go 4.9 miles South to a faint left road, it will be a few hundred yards past the "Sargeant Canyon" sign. Go 1.6 miles to a boulderfield on the left. 4x4 is required to drive the last mile or so. Kindling - V0+ (Bob 7/2005) Ash Hauler The Ash Cheek Boulder Another Texan - V1 (Bob 7/2005) Limestone Canyon - Bob, Colin, Rob, Adam, Brian 10/2005 One mile North of NM52 on FR476. Good rock with shallow huecos just Northwest of where the road crosses the wash. South side of Canyon and up the wash was choss, but the end of the two-track up the wash is a very pretty camping spot with mossy boulders and tall walls. Bear Trap - Scott ~2000 Along NM52 in Bear Trap Canyon there are a few walls and spires. Some Enchanted Tower like boulders. East Red Canyon - Forest Service - Bertrand 1985 107 to 478 to 331, drops down into East Red, boulders at bottom Honey - V0 super tall (Bertrand Gramont) 35 foot light grey face on North side of Canyon with jillions of incut horizontal handholds. More 5.4ish. Triangle Boulder - V1-V3 face problems. 13S0281914 3734707 parking for dope roof More bouldering along 331 all the way to Turkey Spring (TR31) Some bouldering in Allen Spring Canyon and Hidden Springs Canyon. Also, take 478 to 86, drop down into East Red and go East or West to good rock. Watch for stinging nettles. Rattlesnake Canyon - Bertrand 1985 Just before East Red on 331, big pink wall? Indian Creek - 33107e3 Steel Hill Quad (12/8/2007, Bob Broilo, Adam C, Colin Cikoski) Scattered good volcanic bouldering along the canyon, mostly in Apache Kid Wilderness. A North turn off FR225 before mile marker 8 takes you to Nogalita Spring, 4x4 required off 225 but you can't go far before the wilderness boundary anyway, might as well hike from near FR225. Just past Nogalita Spring is the confluence of Indian Creek with Nogal Canyon, head up (Northwest) Indian Creek. Eventually you will start seeing good bouldering amongst the choss. There is prolly more good stuff up some of the side canyons. Around 13S 0281900 3719200 (a little over 2 miles) the creek meets up with Springtime Canyon and Trail #48. Taking this trail to the Southwest (up Springtime Canyon) for a short distance takes you to a few nice boulders. One of which, just to the North of the trail, we did two very fun problems on. Further up Springtime the rock got chossy and we turned around at the Panky Mine. Trail #48 continues South to FR225 around mile marker 10.5 after some steep swichbacks over a saddle but we didn't see much interesting bouldering (although the top of the saddle has a striking view to the Northwest). Taking trail #48 to the Northwest will take you by many nice boulders, the highest concentration of which (a nice little bouldering playground) are about 1.5 miles in, immediately after the trail makes a tricky turn to the West near 13S 280900 3721200 into a cliff-walled narrow area. We haven't been much further up the trail yet, but the DOQs show what might be boulder-strewn canyons all around. Penasco Springs - Peck, Bob, Jason 2004 UTM 13S 0286704 3702718 UTM 13S 0287133 3702380 UTM 13S 0286485 3703432 Remote area with lots of poor rock. Elevation 5700'. Some really good stuff, very solid and nice pockets, the best around the corner of the hill to the Northeast. Small area of private land near the well, so don't park there or mess with the cattle. 4x4 helps. UTM 13S 0287924 3703341 UTM 13S 0288473 3703229 Very Good stuff, similar to Bachar Boulders but less painful. Smooth, clean rock with pockets and incuts, mostly vertical but some slab/overhanging. 2.25 mile hike from NM1. Magdalenas Google Earth Boulders - 2007 UTM 13S 0307295 3760332 Ponderosa: >From ABQ, go North on I25 to US550 (NM44) at Bernalillo. Go West to >San Ysidro. Go North on NM4 to Jemez Pueblo. Just North of Jemez >Pueblo, turn right on NM290/FR10. >From LA or White Rock, Get to NM4 and go West/South. South of Jemez >Springs is a turnoff East (left) on NM290/FR10 for Ponderosa (just >North of the Pueblo of Jemez). >A few miles up NM290/FR10 is the town of Ponderosa, and the road >continues through town. At a reservior ("The Pond"), the road turns >to dirt and becomes FR10. >If you park at The Pond, there are spiffy boulders to the Northwest up >the hill (you'll find trails at some point). This is the established >area with some neat stuff, but it tends to be hot, trashy and feels >like you're in someone's back yard. I'm pretty sure this is BLM land. >If you go over the top of the ridge there is more good bouldering >that's a bit more secluded on the North side of the ridge. >Alternately, you can access the North side of the ridge via FR293 >crossing the creek turning North off NM290/FR10 in town (1/2 mile West >of the Pond). >If you go Northeast from the pond, there are no trails and it is much >less developed. However, you still have the heat to bother you (South >side of a slope and few trees). This is Nat'l Forest East of the >Gate. >If you keep driving up the road for a few miles, you'll pass Peliza >campground and "Y" or two. Stay left on FR10, and you'll gain >elevation while passing cool-looking boulders and getting into >beautiful ponderosa forest. Most of the boulders are choss for a few >miles past Peliza Campground. >One good known bouldering are is where the road tops out on a mesa, >just after a steep climb and some tight turns. There is a pullout on >the left, and a 30-50 foot high cliff band. Down in this valley to >the West and North is a *lot* of good bouldering. If you walk the >cliff band North there are places to drop into the valley, and if you >go far enough along the cliff top there is "Peck's Peninsula" or "The >Ridge" which is a narrowing ridge of mesa made of the same good rock, >jutting out Southwest from the mesa. You can also access this area >from below if you have high-clearance or don't mind scraping your >car. There is a turnout to the left with a water tank/feeder thingy. >To get to "Spider Canyon", go just a few hundred yards North on FR10 >from Peck's Peninsula until you see a two-track heading North to the >left. Follow this road to the obvious boulders. Actually, the road >doesn't go very far before ending. It's a small canyon. >There is a way to get on FR10 going South from NM4 a few miles West >of Las Conchas Campground, then it's only about 7 miles to Peck's >Peninsula. But I've never been there and can't tell you exactly how >to get there. Perhaps a Forest Service map? >Eric's new stuff: Take FR 269 (which splits to the left off the >Ponderosa road back in Ponderosa) over four (inc. the first one right >at the turn) cattleguards, then take the first left. Go through a >gate after not far; road will head left, but turn right and go till >you see boulders and fun (again, not far) Lots of development at Ponderosa but it won't go in this guide (it's not Socorro area and I'm so far behind on this that I can't). Anyone want my notes/pics? - Jake, Peck, Opie, Jason, Colin 1995- Sometimes we will stumble across chalk so I know there are more people willing to explore beyond the Pond here and doing new stuff. So much good rock here! Spider Canyon: 13S0353823 3955802 Spider Bites - up the choss slab left of arete Ricky's Arachnids - little overhanging arete to the right 13S0353848 3955793 "tall boulder cool pockets" 13S0353826 3955867 Attack of the 8-legged freaks - little roof 13S0353970 3956242 "cool boulder" 13S0353893 3956979 "Holy Fucking Shit" nice prob, SDS Spud'n'Sped - East of the Pond 13S0350991 3950711 My Fragile Ego - V2 (Paul 12/29/2003) Bigfoot Boulder 13S0350593 3950880 Seamingly Intoxicated - V1 Obvious slab problem through the horizontal seam. V2 Slab problems to the left Whorifying Boulder Big boulder East of Bigfoot Boulder GG's Goatee - V? tall scary (Bill Spaniard 12/29/2003) Obvious line up East face, cactus at top. Santa Fe choss: the grotto UTM 13S0429819 3929121 ? 13S0427536 3929544 Polvadera Peak Corkscrew Canyon boulders - Box-like rock with a few dozen wonderful problems. Granite - scattered occasional pink bomber granite with strange moves on the Southeast flank Limestone - a few solid roofs and some chossy walls. Some routes Peak - Spire of Box rock and some slab walls Box, etc. Finishing Touches and Gravity Boots area UTM 13S 0316060 3764105 On the way to Cowshit Roof, you can see two small walls up the hill. There is an obvious trail heading up. Several new problems here. Names/Ratings? Finishing Touches - right side: V1 traverse V0 * V0 Gravity Boots - Left side: V1 East Streambed UTM 13S 0316426 3764342 Long walk off. Gigapus - V1 (V1-V2) tall (Bob Murray) Mr. Knobbles - V1 (V1-V2) tall (Bob Murray) Mr. Wiggles - V1 (V1-V2) (Bob Murray) ? AKA Haul Ass - V3 (Bob Bob Murray) Sit start and climb small holds, then throw for the jug at the lip. ? - V4 tall (Bob Murray) ? - V5 tall (Bob Murray) Knob Problem - V3 (V2-V5) tall (Bob Murray) Sit start on two underclings. Come out the roof to the knob to reach the sharp jug on an embedded rock, and top out. Skinner Roof - V2 (V1-V5) tall (Bob Murray) Sit start at the back of the little cave, and come out the horizontal roof and then top out. Leviathan - V9 (Nathaniel) Traverse the entire wall from left to right. Across from East Streambed (Kinda North West Streambed) ? - V1 tall North of Cowshit Bouldering Green Pea ? - V3 bad landing ? - V2 bad landing, scary (Andy 1/29/97) Just downhill from the V3. Sit start on a sloping knob. Peck Overhang UTM 13S 0316078 3764041 Almost directly North of the main Box parking lot. A little overhang facing North. ? AKA The Peck Undercling - V4 (V4-V6) (Peck) Sit start in the back, and go straight out and over. La Cueva Angela Up the hill to the Northeast of Waterfall Wall. Don't climb on the paintings (on the left side, low on the wall). Lots of fun jug hauling out the roof (V9 to the end from the sit near the back-breaker rock). Gimmes Other boulders ? - V1 (Andy*) ? - V2 slippery layback (Andy*) Boulders under dirt wall 13S 0316246 3763832 Juggy Traverse - V1 Pork Corn - V? Jake Hawaiian Muscle Fuck - V3-4 (Collin Horvat) East side of Pork Corn Boulder, Sit start on slopers, go right and to jug, top out right To the South of the juggy traverse, over an outcrop, near the fenceline there is a boulder with a West-facing overhang. The Goofball ? - V0 Adam C Sit start the licheny crack Bar Bitch You Ate - V2 Bob Sit start to small holds Goof off - V1 Bob Sit start to arete, juggy ? - V1 Scary Adam Arete from the right face sit start Goofballs - V1 Bob Straight up the middle of the West overhang Whacked out on Goofballs - V1 Bad Landing Bob Upon reaching the lip of Goofballs, traverse right using Huecos and do the kinda slopey topout over the bad landing. Bouldering on the top of the hill, Northeast of dirt wall Big boulder with terrifying slabs on East side. bouldering caves with bad landings. 5.8 solos to top of boulder with easy downclimb on South side. Between Dirtwall and Minor Wall there is a couple of outcrops. Most are choss with notable exceptions: Roxy's Wall: south of THC wall, juggy wall with overhangs and slabs. Much taller than it appears from the road. Dark Star - V2 (Bob) In a little alcove facing northish. Good dark rock with the better problems yet undone and guarded by a crappy landing. Sit start to crimps and a big hueco, mantle or jugs way back. Small boulder to the West of Dark Star. Several suprisingly interesting problems, probably done by Peck in 1995 or so. Minor Wall Bouldering UTM 13S 0316051 3762897 On the right side of Minor Wall there is a nice traverse. Roadside Wall Between Minor Wall and Handlebar Willy, just off the East side of the road is some short, sharp walls, and the West side has a few boulders. ? - V2 bad landing Sit start on the left of the little alcove. ? - V3 Sit start. ? - V1 Sit start. Next to Unbeatable Shanty Town - V3 (V3-V5) Short, frustrating, one-move wonder. Squat start, grab little crimps, straight up. Traverse - V2 Traverse the lip, left to right. Bushes now interfere, please don't mess with them. Tres Hermanas Area Angela Boulder AKA Edges Boulder There are also several Peck problems on the West face, including a spectacular dyno to a pocket. Names? Ratings? Also, you can start after the main Edges problem on the Northwest corner and climb left to the dihedral and top out - V1 Spedville Boulder left of Billing's Gate ? - V? may not be sent yet. ? - V1 tall Above the Horizon Boulder UTM 13S 0316583 3762266 Behind (to the Northwest of) Calm Horizons, and a little up the hill. Paul Can't Do This - V2 (V2-V3) contrived (Bob*) Thin dyno off two crimps to the bowl. Either top out (tall, scary) or come down to the left. Jiggernut - V2 tall, scary (Bob*) Just to the right of Paul Can't Do This. Pockets and edges straight up. Either stupidly top out for maximum value or traverse down and left. Under the Horizon Boulder Just below the main Calm Horizons boulder Under Anathesia - V1 (Bob 2/18/2004) Sit start on the left end of the East face and go up and slightly right to the lip. Under the Horizon - V3 contrived "traverse harder than it looks don't touch the lip till the end" - Opie Sit start on the left end of the East face, traverse the seam right and up on thin holds all the way to the right end of the boulder. ? - V1 (2/18/2004 Colin) Sit start near the right end of the East face and go straight up the short slab. Down the hill a ways from Billing's Gate ? - V0 ? - V1 (Greg 01/2004) Stand start near the left end of the East face, go straight up on thin and crispy holds. ? - V1 Through the huge Hueco in the middle of the face. ? - V1 "slab is harder than it looks" - Opie Up the hill a bit from that ? - V6? Sit start ? - V3 "sit start on the bad lip holds looks impossible" - Opie The Slopes (GNew Alf Rig) UTM 13S0315276 3761719 The Marble - V4 Stand start on a two-finger ledge at eye-level, slap up left to a sloper, then crank slopers to the lip. Doable from the sit, but it hurts. Dog Ball Banana Wall UTM 13S 0315023 3762579 Whilst preparing to go bouldering, Paul and ? were eating snacks and playing hacky with the dog's rubber ball. A good kick sent the ball directly onto Paul's peeled banana. Immediately upon heading to Box, they discovered this wall. DBBW (say that three times fast) is found about a half mile up the arroyo that flows by Waterfall. It is close to privately-owned land, so behave. Chocolate Salty Balls - V4 (Peck) UTM 13S0315030 3762600 ManBearPig - V5 (Chorvat) Just to the left of Chocolate Salty Balls, under the little roof. ? - V2 tall Boulder down from the North end of the wall. Go up the right side of West face. ? - V3 (Spud? Bob) Roof problem to funky top-out, Just East of CSB. ? - V1 tall ? - V1 tall ? - V0 tall The crack. ? - V? tall, bad landing The rounded arete. ? - V0 tall, bad landing The dihedral. ? - V2 tall, bad landing, scary Go up the center of the face over the roof. ? - V3 tall, bad landing Start just left of the polished prow, above the big overhang. Crank to a triangular hold, then straight up the crack with a plant in it. ? - V4 bad landing Sit start at the back of the cave, powerful moves to the jugs at the cave entrance. Go up the slab to top out. ? - V0 tall Slabs. Dog Ball Banana - V? tall, bad landing, scary (Jake) Just right of the dihedral is a scary sloper problem. ? - V0 tall Up the rounded stuff on the face. Homobanterphilia - V2 Go up the left side of the North face of the Southern Boulder. Named after a certain individual who got freaked by an explicitly homosexual conversation here. ? - V0 Go straight up the middle of the North face of the South boulder ? - V1 bad landing Sit start in the hole between the South boulder and the wall. Work Left, then go up the jugs and over the lip. Mesquite Barbeque Wall UTM 13S 0315223 3762207 You are very near someone's backyard here, so behave and stay low profile. Lots of tall, scary problems on a juggy wall. Thorny mesquite landings. I Fudged Your Mama - V? very tall (Peck) Middle of the West face. Getting Gay with Kids - V? very tall, crux at top (Peck) Also middle of the West face. Highway 395 Meth Hos - V? (Scott) Three young men lost some of their innocence to older women in Bishop, California. Towards the left side of the wall, seperate boulder with an overhanging Northwast face. Sit start on this face and go up. Inflatable Hitler Wall Directly across from Mesquite BBQ wall. Suck Me Adolf Doll - V1 (Peck) Obvious line of holds up a water streak, sit start to big sloping shelf, pockets and slots above. Toad Licking Perverts - V? (Peck) Inflatable Hitler - V? (Peck) Just to the right of Suck Me. Many other lines... New Year's Choss 12/31/07 Some very nice new stuff above North Wall 13S 0316612 3764282 13S 0316660 3764214 13S 0316539 3764156 13S 0316439 3764251 including a some nice slabs, and Pawn Shop Dildo V2-V3 Colin Cikoski in the alcove immediately above the right side of North Wall, sit start to top out. South of Box UTM 13S 0315372 3760459 A mile or two South of Major Wall, west facing cliff band up on a hill South of the road. Big pockets in roofs but can be loose. South Box Go South of Waterfall about 11.5 miles to a tank with obvious Hueco-like boulders to the right (North). Don't park near the tank. 13S0310059 3752870 Some decent problems up the Canyon. Another 2.3 miles on the main road and you'll hit FR233. Good bouldering to the West on FR233. UTM 13S 0307569 3754137. 13S0307377 3754515 Great area to the West, up the road to the turn and then South up the hill. Developed on a tip from Sam Siemens, by Robert Slingsby, Colin Cikoski, and Bob. Spider in yer Nutz - V2 (Bob) SDS shallow huecos, go straight up to incut, top out South Canyon 13S0306160 3765209 totally cool boulder, hellish uphill hike to get to. Colin Cikoski and Bob, 6/12/2005 The Dingleberries These short walls can be seen to the Northwest from the base of Sedillo hill on US60. The best approach is to go to the top of Sedillo hill and pull in to the parking area. Go through the unlocked gate from the parking area, and drive east, past the power line road, to the end of the two-track road. Park here and hike East to the boulders. You'll find them. The Pussy Boulders Nasty sharp boulders to the West of the end of the single track. 13S0317860 3774934 Cunt Stunt V? (Scott 11/22/2003) Arete. Pussy Galore V? (Paul) Face. Hang Wire - V0 (Bob 11/22/2003) Boulder on the fence. Spook Canyon (BLM) ? Boulder The first boulder you come to at the top of the hill. The lower branch of the Y in the trail goes next to the uphill side. ? - V1 bad landing Left side of the East face. Go up and right following the right side of the arete. Ankle breaker rock below the top out. ? - V1 Right side of the East face. Sit start in a big pocket and go straight up. Harder if you off the big rock to the left, V0 if you stand start. French Ethics 13S 0316813 3763560 French Ethics - V4 Sit start and straight up. ? - V0 Right behind French Ethics, stand start and crank sharp pockets. The Shining - V5ish Just to the right. Sit start and go up/right, traverse lip to right. Alternate, go leftish and up to top out. Flounder Boulder South of Cowshit Cave. Hooked Flounder - V2 Sit start on crimps and go up over the lip. "as the name implies a belly flop may be required" - Opie Virgin Area Substance P UTM 13S 0316772 3763619 Substance P - V8 (V8-V10) bad landing, scary (Peck) The obvious line of sharp holds up the stunning overhanging face on the North side. Sit down start, work up to a big, slick hueco, top out just to the left of the hueco. Substance P is a nueromodulator that acts on the transmission of pain stimuli. Liberate your Substance P with this... or just do what most people do and eat some extra hot green chile instead (capsaicin, the active ingredient in hot chiles, acts directly on the Substance P in your sensory nuerons. One theory holds that the subsequent endorphin release is what makes both chile and nice sharp holds both so wonderful and so addictive.). Grotto, Chupadera Spring (BLM) and Cow Crag (Private) Cow Crag is the Northern end of the band of rock and hills East of Spook. US60 cuts through it, and the Spook road meanders the valley between these hills and the Box/Spook Canyon hill system. The Grotto and Chupadera Spring are waterfalls where the washes go over a band of underlying Box-like rock. They are both just East of the Cow Crag Hills. Cow Crag North North of the highway. On EMRTC land, off-limits to us. Some bouldering and extremely short routes. Andy did some stuff here around 1995. Cow Crag South UTM 13S 0318158 3763898 Private land (Access?) Some short trad routes at low angle. More Andy routes ca. 1995. Up the hill to the South lots of easy and some very hard bouldering (Scott?) Grotto UTM 13S 0318289 3762681 Down the wash from the tank. Some good bouldering (Names?) and one 5.11+ bolted route. High-schooler party spot, Often graffitied and littered with cheap beer cans. ? - V3 Sit start, go left and up. Chupadera Spring UTM 13S 0318623 3763411 The next big canyon North of the Grotto. A few routes including an easy bolted route, and bouldering of dubious quality. Bear Mountains 13S 0290335 3799788 Balata Springs Choss - similar to Flagstaff Mountain in Boulder 13S 0290051 3796052 Some good Box-like rock 13S 0290968 3801904 Big white blocks of crap Enchanted Tower (Cibola National Forest) Wait for Sal's book, or just go out and play. There's a suprising amount of quality bouldering under Mother Goose Wall. Monster Island and Kong's Playground (Cibola National Forest) UTM 13S 0225287 3795505 US60 turnoff UTM 13S 0225065 3801801 Park here Small, remote bouldering areas. The rock is similar to the stuff at the Enchanted tower, but less featured and more devious. Monster Island sits at 8200' elevation so it is quite cool, often even in the summer. It can be windy and bitterly cold with a foot or two of snow in the winter. US60 Between Datil and Pie Town, Mile marker 65, North on Forest road 6A about three miles. This road can get slick and muddy after a rain. After passing Monument Rock (a nice free-standing pinnacle) look for a good place to park on the road. Looking East, you'll see some really neat rock formations, with a jumble of boulders on side of the hill to the left. That is Monster Island, about 3/4 mile hike. To the West you can see big boulders peeking through the trees. One of those is Kong's Playground. If you have a high-clearance vehicle, you can turn right onto a Forest Road going East just and park at UTM 13S 0225305 3801152 Jett Jaguar Boulder UTM 13S 0226126 3801788 "A robot created by scientist Goro Ibuki" Jet Jaguar helped Godzilla fight Megalon. If you approached Monster Island correctly, this is the first good boulder you come to. ? - V2 tall, scary On the small, Northwest face, first crank jugs straight up to a bad sloper, then straight up to top out. ? - V0 tall (Paul) The arete just to the right of the above. ? - V0 tall, scary (Paul) Follow the licheny slopers and jugs to the lip. ? - V0 tall, scary (Paul) Another licheny highball, just left of the arching break. ? - V1 tall (Paul) Sit start sidepulling the arching break. Go right, up the arch, and then reach up to good holds. Jet Jaguar Fight Song - V3 tall Sit start on the small South face, go up and left and top out the left side of the face. ? - V2 tall Sit start on the right side of the small South face, then go up and left to top out the right side of the face. Marauding Arthropods - V2 (Opie) On the East face is a slopy, crimpy problem that tops out under a tree that has fallen on the rock. The log used to rest against the topout, but rotted through in 2004. Ants would use the log to gain the summit. ? - V2 (Opie) Just left of above, edges to a pocket. Vampire Cave UTM 13S 0226148 3801788 Look for the old frying pan. Harder stuff around the corner to the North. ? - V5 tall Sit start at Golden, but traverse left and then straight up to top out. Golden - V4 tall (Peck) Super fun. Sit start on two holds. Follow the jugs up and then left to a big hueco on the left side of the slab. Top out the slab. ? - V3 tall Sit start on the right side of the face. Mantle the lip and go up the slab. Cleft Palate Vampire - V0- tall scary bad landing Go up the lieback in the middle of the face over the boulder. Velcro Kitty - B2 bad landing (Jason Plaas 2004) The arete on the left side of the face. ? - V0- bad landing The line of jugs to the left of the Arete, Northeast face. Frankenstien Wall UTM 13S 0226167 3801788 A long, South-facing, slightly overhung, asthetically pleasing wall with small holds. Cool problems! Left of Left - V? Left Frankenstien - V4 Dyno off two crimps to lip Center Frankenstien - V4 Pocket line to knobs. Right Frankenstien - V? tall, scary, bad landing, loose Not sent? Batman's Nipples - V? bad landing Left side of slabby wall around the corner to the East Robin's Codpiece - V? Right side Boulder Solo wall Just East of Frankstien wall is a tall boulder. Some of Peck's tall boulder problems have been bolted. Some individuals stole these hangars from New Canyon in the Manzanos and chopped down a tree at the base of the boulder, just to bolt a scrappy boulder problem? Boulder UTM 13S 0226230 3801819 A small boulder just on the North side of a ridge. Three lines on the West side ? - V1 (Rob 5/11/2003) Sit start, go up the left side arete. Dinkhole - V1 (Rob 5/11/2003) Sit start, go up the face on jugs. ? - V1 (Rob 5/11/2003) Sit start, go up the right side of the right arete. Big Boulder UTM 13S 0226033 3801509 Nice traverse (~V2) and some tall problems on the West face. A difficult roof with a terrible landing on the East side. Happy Finger Boulder UTM 13S 0226447 3801413 about 1/4 mile Southeast. Happy Finger City - V1 Sit start on the Northeast face Kong's Playground UTM 13S 0224091 3801506 (there is a beautiful natural arch near UTM 13S 0224029 3801380) Kong - V4 Kickin' mantle problem. Start right of Kong's foot. Prince of Pie Town - V? Sit start to the left of Kong, traverse left through mono, slopers and then up. Bible Boulders Pump House - V3 UTM 12S 0774883 38022772 Blasphemy Boulder UTM 12S 0775662 38022711 The Stink of Jesus Pope-a-Dope Non-Denominational Hard Core Christian Punks Monsters of Rock Big Red One UTM 12S0774498 3801954 Big Red One - V0 Aerosmith - V0 Opie 2006-8-10 Big Hair Boulder Big Hair Day - V0 Bob Sound of Rushing Feces - V1 Peck Big Easy UTM 12S0774460 3801897 Monzer - Opie 2006-8-10 French Quarter - V2 Show Me Your Jugs - V1 Bourbon Street - V0 Amazing Sex Acts - V2 Chloride Palace of the Brine - V1 Bob 10/7/06 A little Yucca Action - James 10/7/06 Phil's Problem - James 10/7/06 Quebradas Sandstone areas - 2004 West of the Quebradas road, South of Arroyo Del Tajo, small sandstone boulders like Riley. Not worth it. Colin Cikoski and I did several problems here at 13S 0339731 3758239 Granite area High-quality granite bouldering in the polished slot canyon South of the Barite mine. Highly variable depending on flooding. The best walls are near the Western end of the slot. The slot canyon can be driven to with a serious 4x4, or easily accessed on mountain bike. Bursom Springs (BLM, Private) Cool roof problems on Limestone, sometimes over pools of water, some approaching solo height. Some short boulder problems. Reefer Canyon (The Reef) (BLM, NM) Park here: UTM 13S 0335846 3772639 Drive out the Quebradas road until it starts going South. After about 1/2 mile of South driving, look for a wash cutting across the road. The road should start going uphill for a ways immediately after the wash. Park on the side of the road. Do not drive up the wash as this is a restricted vehicle use area. Use caution, this area has flash floods several times a year. Walk East up the wash about 2 1/4 miles. You will enter a large limestone canyon. The boulders and walls in the bottom of the canyon can have excellent bouldering. Slabby Warmup Rock UTM 13S 0338178 3773240 One of the first rocks as you head up the canyon. Easy, super low-angle but fun. ? - V0 ? - V0 ? - VO Bum Boulder UTM 13S 0338190 3773247 Just behind Slabby Warmup ? - V1 Grab the shelf on the East face and go up on small cuts. ? - V? Just right of the arete on the North face. ? - V2 Middle of the North face. Power up to a jug and a sharp thing, then to the top. Dimple Face UTM 13S 0338219 3773282 South-facing short boulder, covered in dimples. Dimple Face - V0 (Bob 1/1/2003) Straight up the middle. Lambcakes UTM 13S 0338226 3773298 Lambcakes - V2 (Bob 1/1/2003) Sit start on square cut hold on the East face and go straight up. Dirty Little Boulder UTM 13S 0338237 3773305 South side of canyon. ? - V3 (Chris 12/28/2002) Start on slick things on East side, crank over the lip. ? - V? (Chris 12/28/2002) Start on slick things as above, but slap out right to the other lip, then mantle your way to dirty bliss. Madness Boulders South side of canyon. Reefer Madness - V? (Scott 12/2002) Start back in the cave. Use slick and sharp things to get up to the slabby face, the top out right. Space Madness - V3 (Bob 12/2002) Start on a wonderful slot and undercling, then either go straight over the point or go out right to top out. Pain Boulders At the waterfall/pond, South side of the Canyon. Obvious, stunning. Pain Barrier - V4 (Scott 12/2002) You'll have to break the pain barrier to finish this one. On the Northeast corner of the right boulder of the jumble. Throw for the sloping shelf, then straight over the top. Look for blood. ? - V? (Peck 12/28/2002) The 45 degree face right of the Pain Barrier boulder. Crimps and sharp things. Nightmare sharp top out. ? - V0 tall (Paul 12/2002) All the way right, on the boulder with the huge loose block with plants growing out of it. Red Zone Cuba On the Southern side of the canyon, two large squarish reddish boulders. Cigar Smuggler - V2-3 (Colin 12/05/2003) Sit start on the left side of the East face of the East boulder, on a two-handed slick rail. Go up the face. Castro? - V3 (Scott 12/2002) Sit start on the big ledge, work left and up to top out between the two boulders. For the grade and maximum enjoyment, the giant shelf is off. Red Zone Cuba - V0 (Bob 12/2002) In the middle of the right boulder, easy straight up. Mini-Thins A tall face on the North side of the Canyon, with a crack running all the way from ground to top. Mini-Thins - V3? tall, scary, crux at top (Scott 12/2002) Follow the crack all the way to the top on tiny crimpers. Elephant Area A wide face on the South side of the Canyon, with many V0 to V2s, mostly good landings and fairly solid rock. Above this wall is a cougar cave, where we have found mountain lion tracks, and the fur of prey. The Elephant On the other side of the Canyon as the Warmup Area, a tall boulder. Downclimb on the back (North side). Elephant - V1 tall Go up the Arete. Elephant Riders - V3 tall, scary (Scott) Sit start on the middle of the East face of The Elephant, cool double mantle problem. Just a few yards East of the Elephant, there is a small boulder with an overhanging face. The Body of John Wilkes Booth - V4 (Scott) Sit start on the overhang, crank to a sloper and top out. Smarts Area UTM 13S 0338747 3773404 The nice walls on the North side of the wash, East of Elephant on the way to Pirate's Cove. Dr Oddman - V0 (Bob 12/05/2003) Go up the left-leaning dihedral. Blood Donor - V2 semi-contrived (Colin 12/05/2003) Start on the tan face just right of the dihedral, go up and over the arete. Dihedral is off-route. Pirate's Cove A silly short wall on the North side of the canyon. There is a tree on the South side, and the streambed cuts through the rock here. Booty - V0 (Bob 1/1/2003) "Professor, what's another word for pirate treasure?" Sit start on the big square block. Captain Crunch - V1 (Colin 12/05/2003) Sit start on finger slots and slick feet, and crank your way up. Carribean Sea - V0 (Bob 1/1/2003) Strangely beautiful holds. Follow the line of rounded jugs up. Portugese Man-of-War - V3 (Bob 1/1/2003) Slick feet! Sit start on edges, crank to the hole and top out. Seven of Oceans - V3 contrived (Bob 1/1/2003) "Here we are, seven of oceans Great divide conquers emotions, for good Drives in car, transfers allegiance to land Looks to land's earthen embrace" - Tom Ellard Traverse below the lip from left of Booty to right of Portugese Man-of-War, or go the other way, or lap it! Wall South of Pirate's Cove Just South of Pirate's Cove, on the 35 foot limestone wall of the canyon, are some compelling lines. ? - V0- very tall (Colin 12/05/2003) Just right of the right hand squarish roof is this very tall slabby route. Originally done to scope the top out for the roof. Riley (BLM, State, Private) Sandstone and some limestone around a remote ghost town. Getting to Riley involves long drives on dirtroads, river crossings that can get serious depending on rain/snow fall, slow dusty driving on steep hills with blind curves. During dry conditions the roads are generally very good and passable with a typical passenger car, but they can get bad quickly for even serious four-wheel-drives. There is no gas, food, or potable water for public use. The nearest hospital (Socorro) is over an hour away in the best of road conditions. A high-clearance vehicle with a hand winch ("come-a-long") and shovel, several extra gallons of water, food, and a comprehensive first-aid kit are highly recommended. There is a complex pattern of private/BLM/state land here, so new development needs to be cautious. I would recommend not developing anything on private land. To get to Riley: Method 1: take Exit 175 off I25 (Bernardo) and go West. County-level maps of the area are highly recommended for this route, but it's probably the fastest way to get here from the North. Follow the main road Southwest, past the RV park and across the Rio Puerco on a cool old bridge. The road turns to dirt at the Sevilleta gate turnoff, then stay on the main road as it goes Northwest, West, and finally South, curving around Los Ladrones (the rugged, rocky mountain). Eventually, after about 29 miles of dirt road, you will hit the Bus Stop and then the Fork (you'll know the Fork when you see it). Method 2: Go to Magdalena and turn North of US60 at Evett's Cafe. after about 200yds you will see a brown sign and a turn to the right marked for Riley. After about 19 miles, you will hit the Rio Salado with the Fork just North of the river. Method 3: Go to Magdalena and turn North of US60 on the road to Alamo Indian Reservation. After a few miles, turn right (North) on FR123. After about 20 more miles, you will see a turn to the right (East) with a brown sign for Riley. Go about six or seven miles to the Fiesta Boulders, and two miles or so to the Fork. Rio Salado Boulders These may be your only option if you're coming from Magdalena and the rivers are too deep to drive across. Don't worry, they are great! On the West side of the Rio Salado, just North of the right turn to cross the river to get to the ghost town, and just South of the river crossing near the Fork. On the West side of the road on the side of the hill are many tan-brown boulders. Warmup Boulder Yet another Warmup Boulder. Nice vertical tan and brown face on Southeast. UTM 13S 0294614 3807045 ? - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003) Sit start, straight up over loose block. ? - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003) Sit start, up over two shelfs. ? - V0+ (Colin 12/14/2003) Stand start in the middle. ? - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003) Sit start on right side, go up jugs and top out. Hotpad - V0 (Bob 12/14/2003) Sit start on far right side, traverse left and up to left end, top out on left block. I liked it a lot. Dead Tree Wall Up the hill to the Northwest, dead tree on top of overhung face. UTM 13S 0294576 3807057 ? - V1 (Colin 12/14/2003) Sit start on left side, powerful move up to a jug and top out. ? - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003) Sit start and climb through the gritty hueco to top out. Sticks - V1 (Bob 12/14/2003) Sit start on jugs, go the the lip and pull over. Super fun with a funky top out. Root Down - V1 (Bob 12/14/2003) Sit start on far right end, traverse left across juggy face, top out on far left. Fun moves on (moslty) positive jugs. Coffee notch Looking South from Dead Tree Wall, there is a notch of dark rock. Lots of nice easy stuff, some serious highballs over bad landings at the South opening. Monkey Love Boulder Just East of Coffee Notch, large boulder with a cool overhang on Southeast face. UTM 13S 0294624 3807017 Slope and Crimp Monkey Love - V3 tall, bad landing (Colin 12/14/2003) Grab jugs under the roof, work left and up onto the large dark brown face, top out. Super good. Patina Wall - V0 (Colin 12/14/2003) Just East of Monkey Love Boulder smaller boulder with nice holds on light tan East face. Foot Boulder East of Patina wall, short powerful roof with poor landing. Auto-ped-anal-eroticism - V2? very bad landing (Colin 12/14/2003) Short problem starting at lower lip of roof. Mosquito(?) Boulders On the road that goes North by the church ruin, on the West side of the road. Large, somewhat chossy walls. To the east, some of the darker boulders yield interesting problems, but the density is low. Alien Overlord Boulders Over the hill to the West of the Mosquito Boulders. Solid, juggy, asthetically pleasing boulders. Comfy grips and just tall enough to be fun for people who like the easier stuff. Fiesta Boulders UTM 13S 0291846 3808343 After crossing Rio Salado going North, turn left at fork, cross Salado again, look for CR12A going left. Obvious large boulders. Ugly 'Viva Fiesta "91"' grafitti. The rock is more solid than it looks, but occaisonally can be unpredictably brittle. North of Ladron Limestone 13S 0303813 3769458 Obvious boulders to the North where the Riley road turns South *V4+ - The Ex-Foreskinator (Sam 070203) Sit Start on boulder, climb East face V1 - Spontaneous Clitorectomy (Sam 070203) Sit start Arete to right V0 - Nipplectomy Slab on South face Los Ladrones Lots of really good granite, low density so far (lots of hiking) Parking spot 1: 13S 0315389 3813233 Parking spot 2: 13S 0313508 3815868 Water Canyon (Cibola National Forest) About 15 miles West of Socorro on US60 is a signed turnoff for Water Canyon Campground, FR235. Drive 4.5 miles up a paved road to the campground, this is a good place to park. The big cliffs are too loose to climb, and are host to nesting falcons, so don't go messin' 'round up there. However, the boulders in the valley near the campground can be pretty good, but some may be on private land. Watch for bees and wasps, who like to nest in the rocks. The rock can be loose, but the weather is generally cooler than Box and there are less bugs in the summer. Nilla's Wafers UTM 13S 0303723 376938 This is one of the obvious clumps of boulders that can be seen from the road. Park at Water Canyon campground and walk East to avoid trespassing on private land. Chasing Hadia - V0 tall, scary, bad landing (Nilla) On the tall boulder above the main group, just East of a large tree. Sit start, go straight up the North corner. Nilla Wafer - V2 bad landing (Bob) Sit start back in little cave, one hard move to jugs and a funky top out. Soggy Biscuit - V3 (Bob) Just right of Nilla Wafer, sit start on a big scary hollow flake, top out over cactus. Mars Hotel UTM 13S 0303702 3766833 The most obvious set of boulders that can be seen from the road, with a large lightning-scarred tree on top. Park at Water Canyon campground and walk East to avoid trespassing on private land. Hippy Tie-dye Boulders UTM 13S 0303464 3766523 Up a gully to the South of the campground. Loose Lucy Is My Delight - V? (Scott 6/8/2003) The steep face. Loose holds. Beef Curtain Traverse - V? (Scott 6/8/2003) Sit start on the right (downhill) side of the Ease face. Go left until you're standing on a slab, then top out. Beef Sashimi - V3 (Bob 6/8/2003) Same sit start, but upon reaching the end of the bulge, cheese out and go straight up to a positive hold, then slab on out the top. Terrifying Boulder Further up the gully: loose, compelling boulder solos up to 30 feet high. Roadside Boulders Up the Langmuir road a mile or two are some boulders on the South side of the road near the stream. Dirty and loose, but some fun stuff. Trail 10 boulders Up on trail 10 just before the collapsed cabin are a few good boulders. Several V0 to V2 problems, often dirty and spiderwebby. Front Boulders Park opposite the FR235 sign. Hike up and West, past a ruin and a wash. The hillside has boulders hidden amongst the trees. Parking at 13S 0306501 3769490 Boulder at 13S 0305292 3768053 Short, Dirty and Unpleasant 13S 0305152 3767923 - V2 (bob) Or, go to FR ?, drive as high as possible, park then hike South and up. In wash: Subway to Venus Wanker Way On talus slope: Poppin' Smurfette South Canyon Many interesting problems in the bottom. Sixmile Canyon (Paul, Will 1992) About 2 miles up Sixmile Canyon trail #14, off FR38, about 3 miles from US60 (4x4 may be needed for last 1/2 mile). Two good boulders with about a dozen problems. Definitely worth the hike at least once.