Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Waterfall Area
Main box parking lot: UTM 13S 0316096 3763993
Waterfall wall is directly East of the large parking area that the
road runs into.
There used to be an information board, an interpretive sign, a toilet
and a dumpster. Since the floods of 2006 the only thing left is the
dumpster. The BLM is trying to rebuild the parking area. So if there
is a sign-in sheet, you should sign so that the
can keep up the good work.
This is a very popular toprope area, so while your friends are wasting
time messing with ropes, you can check out the convenient bouldering
Tree Boulder AKA 5.12 Boulder
Tree Boulder is the Northernmost boulder in the Waterfall group. It
features a small tree growing at the Northern corner. The tree has
grown over the years, and the low traverse is now blocked by the tree.
Don't mess with the tree! Journey to the Sun is just as fun and uses
almost all the same holds, and a key hold for the low traverse has
broken off anyway.
The West face of Tree Boulder
- Journey to the Sun - V4 contrived Bob*
Same sit start as the others, but traverse low to an icky crimper (a la
the tree-blocked low traverse problem), then straight up.
Can be a painful journey.
- Tree Boulder Traverse AKA The 5.12 Boulder Problem - V2 (V1-V4)
Sit start in the right-hand side of the overhang. Crank up
to the big holds, and traverse left at the lip of the overhang. Top
out the arete just right of the tree.
The Tree Boulder Problem AKA Shattered Bottle - V2 (V1-V3)
Either sit or stand start in the little overhang and go straight up
through the two-finger pocket on the face.
The neat-o spiffy problem on Tree Boulder.
- ? - V0 bad landing
The rest of the face to the right is fun but sports an ankle-breaker
ramp along the bottom of much of it.
Nothing Here Boulder
The little boulder between Ultimate and Tree.
- Nothing Here - V0 Andy
Sit start under the tiny roof.
This was named Nothing Here in the black book. Andy finally
found the problem.
UTM 13S 0316141 3764013
Ultimate Boulder sports the overhanging, crimpy-looking face
immediately East of Swine Boulder, and immediately North of the left side
of Waterfall Wall.
The West face of Ultimate Boulder
- Africa - V3 bad landing Bob*
Sit start on the far left hand side of the face with one hand on the
"Africa" flake. Pull on crimps and slopers and into the juggy topout
of Left Line. A scarier and harder variation continues straight up on
This line is so apparent that it must have been done long ago?
- Left Line - V0 bad landing
Go up, left, and up the juggy arete.
This enormously popular problem used to be V0- until it got nasty
polished and slick.
- The Ultimate Boulder Problem - V1
Most cool. Cruise up the middle on nice crimpers and turn the lip.
For more fun, off as many holds as possible.
The big sharp jug just below the lip may break off someday.
- ? - V1 bad landing
Sit start over the pointy rock, and go straight up.
- Ultilactic - V1 bad landing Bob*
Starting on the far left of the face, do a traverse
across the face and finish up Left Line.
This boulder sits West of the gap between Waterfall Wall and Ultimate
Boulder. It bore the stigma of graffitti stating "swine" on the West
side, but time has washed the offending paint away.
The North face of Swine Boulder
- ? - V0- tall
On the left end of the Northwest face. A few vertical moves take you to an
easy ramp to the top.
Northern Swine Overhang - V1 tall
Either stand start immediately right of the above problem on jugs, or
a little more right on a trangular tooth. Go up the line of good holds
and pull over the top.
- Middle Swine Overhang - V1 tall
Start on a big, polished, two-handed jug. Gain the juggy hueco just
below the top and pull over.
- Easy Swine Sitdown - V0
Sit start and climb the right end of the face.
- Swine Traverse - V1
Traverse the North face either direction.
- Swine Contrivance - V2 tall, contrived
Go up between the Northern and Middle overhang problems without using
any of their holds.
Just East up the hill from the gap between Waterfall Wall and Ultimate
Boulder. It's on the trail to La Cueva Angela which branches from the
North trail to the top of Waterfall Wall. The East face has a slightly
overhung face with sharp features.
- Madame Vasoline - V0 bad landing, scary Paul
Sit start in an alcove, just right of a buried rock. Go up and then
traverse left over the scary rock, then top out.
The east face of Guillotine Boulder
- Madame Guillotine - V5 Andy 3/22/1997
Sit start on the right end of the boulder. Go up and then start
working left on sharp holds until you reach rounded jugs at head
level. Either top out after reaching the jugs, or go ahead and link
into Madame Vasoline for more fun.
"The crystal tells you it's working" - Andy
Superb, Beautiful, painful. This was worked a long time
before anybody got it. First Peck spied the line and started working
it, but an injury set him back. Andy worked on it for four and a half
months before finally finishing it, although in a slightly different
way than Peck first envisioned.
Excerpt from Andy's notes:
"Then it was time.. Guillotine time! That's right, you guessed it!
Another trip to fling myself at Madamme Guillotine! And what, you
might ask is Madamme Guillotine?! Ahh.. Madamme Guillotine is about
15 feet of sharp V1-V2, to a crux that I keep trying to get involving
a gaston off of a hold designed to hurt, throwing off a yucky to a
little 2 finger thingy that also hurts.. You'll note the feet are
lousy for this operation, and that once the 2 finger yucky is grasped,
the standard method is to try to shove a couple fingers in a sharp
little pocket.. All this plus another couple hard moves for the
bargain price of just V6 or 7! Alright.. did I mention it hasn't had
a complete ascent yet since Peck hurt his finger out at Spook?" -
1. var Madame Guillotine Short Variation - V4
Sit start under the crux and top out.
Collin found this way to work the crux with less finger damage
The obvious wall East of the main Box parking lot. Lots of TRs, and
overhung right and left faces.
Left side of Waterfall Wall, under the overhang.
- Battle Arms - V3
Traverse the entire overhanging on the left side of Waterfall Wall.
So many holds have fallen off of this, but the fun and the
grade have stayed the same.
The next three problems are just the interesting boulder starts to
the routes on this part of the wall. Only Rough Caress stays difficult
past the bouldery start.
- Rough Caress - V2
Sit start down on the big block. Boulder up and left to the last
jug on Rough Caress.
- Tough Country Variation - V1
Sit start down on the big block. Boulder up and right along
the roof to the last
jug on Tough Country.
- 1986 - V2
On the right end of the overhang, just before the arete, go as high
as you dare. Again, just bouldering the low crux of the route. Sit
starting back in the little cave adds a grade.
Waterfall Wall, right side, Handprint
Handprint AKA The Colin B. Ankle Eater - V1 tall, bad landing, crux at top
Funky holds get you to the dihedral just left of the large flat face,
then follow it to the lip.
Though it looks terrible in this pic, it's fun. This
problem was a little scarier before the days of crashpads but it will
still give a thrill. Traditionally, there is a faint chalk handprint
on the diamond-shaped face. The move just below the lip is balancey.
The horrible green rock that used to lurk at the base has washed away.
Before it absconded, however, it broke at least one
- ? - V0 tall
Go up the corner, big cobble partway up, top out left of the corner.
- ? - V2 tall
Just right of the corner, crank up the overhang to slopey
holds to top out.
updated February 16th, 2007