Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Waterfall Area

The West face of Tree Boulder


1. Journey to the Sun - V4 contrived Bob*
   Same sit start as the others, but traverse low to an icky crimper (a la the tree-blocked low traverse problem), then straight up.
   Can be a painful journey.
2. Tree Boulder Traverse AKA The 5.12 Boulder Problem - V2 (V1-V4)
   Sit start in the right-hand side of the overhang. Crank up to the big holds, and traverse left at the lip of the overhang. Top out the arete just right of the tree.
   
3. The Tree Boulder Problem AKA Shattered Bottle - V2 (V1-V3)
   Either sit or stand start in the little overhang and go straight up through the two-finger pocket on the face.
   The neat-o spiffy problem on Tree Boulder.
4. ? - V0 bad landing
   The rest of the face to the right is fun but sports an ankle-breaker ramp along the bottom of much of it.
   

Nothing Here Boulder

• Nothing Here - V0 Andy
  Sit start under the tiny roof.
  This was named Nothing Here in the black book. Andy finally found the problem.

The West face of Ultimate Boulder


1. Africa - V3 bad landing Bob*
   Sit start on the far left hand side of the face with one hand on the "Africa" flake. Pull on crimps and slopers and into the juggy topout of Left Line. A scarier and harder variation continues straight up on crimps.
   This line is so apparent that it must have been done long ago?
2. Left Line - V0 bad landing
   Go up, left, and up the juggy arete.
   This enormously popular problem used to be V0- until it got nasty polished and slick.
3. The Ultimate Boulder Problem - V1
   Most cool. Cruise up the middle on nice crimpers and turn the lip. For more fun, off as many holds as possible.
   The big sharp jug just below the lip may break off someday.
4. ? - V1 bad landing
   Sit start over the pointy rock, and go straight up.
   
5. Ultilactic - V1 bad landing Bob*
   Starting on the far left of the face, do a traverse across the face and finish up Left Line.
   Pumpy

The North face of Swine Boulder


1. ? - V0- tall
   On the left end of the Northwest face. A few vertical moves take you to an easy ramp to the top.
   
2. Northern Swine Overhang - V1 tall
   Either stand start immediately right of the above problem on jugs, or a little more right on a trangular tooth. Go up the line of good holds and pull over the top.
   Super sweet!
3. Middle Swine Overhang - V1 tall
   Start on a big, polished, two-handed jug. Gain the juggy hueco just below the top and pull over.
   
4. Easy Swine Sitdown - V0
   Sit start and climb the right end of the face.

• Swine Traverse - V1
  Traverse the North face either direction.
  
• Swine Contrivance - V2 tall, contrived
  Go up between the Northern and Middle overhang problems without using any of their holds.
  

• Madame Vasoline - V0 bad landing, scary Paul
  Sit start in an alcove, just right of a buried rock. Go up and then traverse left over the scary rock, then top out.
  

The east face of Guillotine Boulder


1. Madame Guillotine - V5 Andy 3/22/1997
   Sit start on the right end of the boulder. Go up and then start working left on sharp holds until you reach rounded jugs at head level. Either top out after reaching the jugs, or go ahead and link into Madame Vasoline for more fun.
   "The crystal tells you it's working" - Andy
   Superb, Beautiful, painful. This was worked a long time before anybody got it. First Peck spied the line and started working it, but an injury set him back. Andy worked on it for four and a half months before finally finishing it, although in a slightly different way than Peck first envisioned.
   Excerpt from Andy's notes:
   

   "Then it was time.. Guillotine time! That's right, you guessed it! Another trip to fling myself at Madamme Guillotine! And what, you might ask is Madamme Guillotine?! Ahh.. Madamme Guillotine is about 15 feet of sharp V1-V2, to a crux that I keep trying to get involving a gaston off of a hold designed to hurt, throwing off a yucky to a little 2 finger thingy that also hurts.. You'll note the feet are lousy for this operation, and that once the 2 finger yucky is grasped, the standard method is to try to shove a couple fingers in a sharp little pocket.. All this plus another couple hard moves for the bargain price of just V6 or 7! Alright.. did I mention it hasn't had a complete ascent yet since Peck hurt his finger out at Spook?" - 3/1/97

   
   1. var Madame Guillotine Short Variation - V4
   Sit start under the crux and top out.
   Collin found this way to work the crux with less finger damage

Left side of Waterfall Wall, under the overhang.


1. Battle Arms - V3
   Traverse the entire overhanging on the left side of Waterfall Wall.
   So many holds have fallen off of this, but the fun and the grade have stayed the same.

The next three problems are just the interesting boulder starts to the routes on this part of the wall. Only Rough Caress stays difficult past the bouldery start.
2. Rough Caress - V2
   Sit start down on the big block. Boulder up and left to the last jug on Rough Caress.
   
3. Tough Country Variation - V1
   Sit start down on the big block. Boulder up and right along the roof to the last jug on Tough Country.
   
4. 1986 - V2
   On the right end of the overhang, just before the arete, go as high as you dare. Again, just bouldering the low crux of the route. Sit starting back in the little cave adds a grade.