Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Waterfall Area

Main box parking lot: UTM 13S 0316096 3763993
Waterfall wall is directly East of the large parking area that the road runs into.

There used to be an information board, an interpretive sign, a toilet and a dumpster. Since the floods of 2006 the only thing left is the dumpster. The BLM is trying to rebuild the parking area. So if there is a sign-in sheet, you should sign so that the BLM can keep up the good work.

This is a very popular toprope area, so while your friends are wasting time messing with ropes, you can check out the convenient bouldering here.

Tree Boulder AKA 5.12 Boulder

Tree Boulder is the Northernmost boulder in the Waterfall group. It features a small tree growing at the Northern corner. The tree has grown over the years, and the low traverse is now blocked by the tree. Don't mess with the tree! Journey to the Sun is just as fun and uses almost all the same holds, and a key hold for the low traverse has broken off anyway.
    Tree Boulder, West face
    The West face of Tree Boulder

  1. Journey to the Sun - V4 contrived Bob*
    Same sit start as the others, but traverse low to an icky crimper (a la the tree-blocked low traverse problem), then straight up.
    Can be a painful journey.
  2. Tree Boulder Traverse AKA The 5.12 Boulder Problem - V2 (V1-V4)
    Sit start in the right-hand side of the overhang. Crank up to the big holds, and traverse left at the lip of the overhang. Top out the arete just right of the tree.
  3. The Tree Boulder Problem AKA Shattered Bottle - V2 (V1-V3)
    Either sit or stand start in the little overhang and go straight up through the two-finger pocket on the face.
    The neat-o spiffy problem on Tree Boulder.
  4. ? - V0 bad landing
    The rest of the face to the right is fun but sports an ankle-breaker ramp along the bottom of much of it.

Nothing Here Boulder

The little boulder between Ultimate and Tree.

Ultimate Boulder

UTM 13S 0316141 3764013
Ultimate Boulder sports the overhanging, crimpy-looking face immediately East of Swine Boulder, and immediately North of the left side of Waterfall Wall.
    Ultimate Boulder
    The West face of Ultimate Boulder

  1. Africa - V3 bad landing Bob*
    Sit start on the far left hand side of the face with one hand on the "Africa" flake. Pull on crimps and slopers and into the juggy topout of Left Line. A scarier and harder variation continues straight up on crimps.
    This line is so apparent that it must have been done long ago?
  2. Left Line - V0 bad landing
    Go up, left, and up the juggy arete.
    This enormously popular problem used to be V0- until it got nasty polished and slick.
  3. The Ultimate Boulder Problem - V1
    Most cool. Cruise up the middle on nice crimpers and turn the lip. For more fun, off as many holds as possible.
    The big sharp jug just below the lip may break off someday.
  4. ? - V1 bad landing
    Sit start over the pointy rock, and go straight up.
  5. Ultilactic - V1 bad landing Bob*
    Starting on the far left of the face, do a traverse across the face and finish up Left Line.

Swine Boulder

This boulder sits West of the gap between Waterfall Wall and Ultimate Boulder. It bore the stigma of graffitti stating "swine" on the West side, but time has washed the offending paint away.
    Swine Boulder, North Face
    The North face of Swine Boulder

  1. ? - V0- tall
    On the left end of the Northwest face. A few vertical moves take you to an easy ramp to the top.
  2. Northern Swine Overhang - V1 tall
    Either stand start immediately right of the above problem on jugs, or a little more right on a trangular tooth. Go up the line of good holds and pull over the top.
    Super sweet!
  3. Middle Swine Overhang - V1 tall
    Start on a big, polished, two-handed jug. Gain the juggy hueco just below the top and pull over.
  4. Easy Swine Sitdown - V0
    Sit start and climb the right end of the face.

Guillotine Boulder

Just East up the hill from the gap between Waterfall Wall and Ultimate Boulder. It's on the trail to La Cueva Angela which branches from the North trail to the top of Waterfall Wall. The East face has a slightly overhung face with sharp features.
    Madame Guillotine
    The east face of Guillotine Boulder

  1. Madame Guillotine - V5 Andy 3/22/1997
    Sit start on the right end of the boulder. Go up and then start working left on sharp holds until you reach rounded jugs at head level. Either top out after reaching the jugs, or go ahead and link into Madame Vasoline for more fun.
    "The crystal tells you it's working" - Andy
    Superb, Beautiful, painful. This was worked a long time before anybody got it. First Peck spied the line and started working it, but an injury set him back. Andy worked on it for four and a half months before finally finishing it, although in a slightly different way than Peck first envisioned.
    Excerpt from Andy's notes:
    "Then it was time.. Guillotine time! That's right, you guessed it! Another trip to fling myself at Madamme Guillotine! And what, you might ask is Madamme Guillotine?! Ahh.. Madamme Guillotine is about 15 feet of sharp V1-V2, to a crux that I keep trying to get involving a gaston off of a hold designed to hurt, throwing off a yucky to a little 2 finger thingy that also hurts.. You'll note the feet are lousy for this operation, and that once the 2 finger yucky is grasped, the standard method is to try to shove a couple fingers in a sharp little pocket.. All this plus another couple hard moves for the bargain price of just V6 or 7! Alright.. did I mention it hasn't had a complete ascent yet since Peck hurt his finger out at Spook?" - 3/1/97

    1. var Madame Guillotine Short Variation - V4
    Sit start under the crux and top out.
    Collin found this way to work the crux with less finger damage

Waterfall Wall

The obvious wall East of the main Box parking lot. Lots of TRs, and overhung right and left faces.
    Battle Arms
    Left side of Waterfall Wall, under the overhang.

  1. Battle Arms - V3
    Traverse the entire overhanging on the left side of Waterfall Wall.
    So many holds have fallen off of this, but the fun and the grade have stayed the same.

  2. The next three problems are just the interesting boulder starts to the routes on this part of the wall. Only Rough Caress stays difficult past the bouldery start.
  3. Rough Caress - V2
    Sit start down on the big block. Boulder up and left to the last jug on Rough Caress.
  4. Tough Country Variation - V1
    Sit start down on the big block. Boulder up and right along the roof to the last jug on Tough Country.
  5. 1986 - V2
    On the right end of the overhang, just before the arete, go as high as you dare. Again, just bouldering the low crux of the route. Sit starting back in the little cave adds a grade.
    Waterfall Wall, right side, Handprint

  1. Handprint AKA The Colin B. Ankle Eater - V1 tall, bad landing, crux at top
    Funky holds get you to the dihedral just left of the large flat face, then follow it to the lip.
    Though it looks terrible in this pic, it's fun. This problem was a little scarier before the days of crashpads but it will still give a thrill. Traditionally, there is a faint chalk handprint on the diamond-shaped face. The move just below the lip is balancey. The horrible green rock that used to lurk at the base has washed away. Before it absconded, however, it broke at least one ankle.
  2. ? - V0 tall
    Go up the corner, big cobble partway up, top out left of the corner.
  3. ? - V2 tall
    Just right of the corner, crank up the overhang to slopey holds to top out.

updated February 16th, 2007
Bob Broilo