Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Unbeatable Boulder
UTM 13S 0316311 3762061
Further South down the road from the main Box parking lot, through two
washes, up over the hill, park just before the cattle guard. Looking
East from your parking spot, you'll see an obvious boulder in the
valley South of Major Wall and Alcohol Wall. West of Angela Boulder.
Big, undercut Northwest face. Downclimb the juggy West face (V0-).
Unbeatable, Left side of North Face
Likin' Lichen - V0
A few feet left of the overhang, just right of the corner. Sit
start and angle left up the pockets.
Groovy pocket pulling.
Dislikin' Lichen - V1
Sit start in the same place, but go right to an undercling
and over the lip on small holds.
- Yellow Like Cheese - V4 (V3-V5) tall, scary
Sit start at like Likin' Lichen and Dislikin' Lichen. Up and Right to
the lip, then traverse the lip to top out Pressure Drop.
Unbeatable, Middle of North Face
Jah Lives - V5 (V4-V7) scary, contrived
Sit start, then go up and left on slopers and pockets. Upon gaining a
small sloper shelf with a slot in the back about six feet off the
ground, dyno to the lip. Mantle.
Way Ultra Cool.
4 var. Traverse into Jah Lives - V5 scary, contrived
Traverse low all the way from the sit start of Pressure Drop
left to the starting holds of Jah Lives, then do Jah Lives.
Helps to solidify the grade for Jah Lives
Burning Spear - V7 (V4-V7)
Godzilla - V9 Jake
Stand start on holds six feet up. Go right and up.
From the sit start to Jah lives, climb to and top out Burning Spear.
Yet another Peck visionary line snarfed by the power of Jake.
Wrath of Godzilla - V10 contrived Scott
Sit start at Pressure Drop, then use holds at about the five foot level
to traverse to Godzilla, then fire it.
Ant Man - V10 contrived Jake
Need a good detail picture to describe this contrivance.
Very bad holds become usable with clever body positioning.
Swat Team vs. Ant Lion - V10 contrived Jake
Another contrivance in need of a good detail picture.
Unbeatable, North Face Arete
- Lion of Judea AKA Tuff Gong AKA Tough Goin' - V3 (V3-V5) tall, scary
Sit start and straight up on a line of Huecos to the slopers over the lip.
Pressure Drop - V1 tall, scary
Sit start and do the arete with some jugs on the left face.
Great fun, a must do.
People have done this using *only* the arete but it's very much
Best Slab - V2 tall, scary
Sit start a-la Pressure Drop but go right, around the corner, and up
the slab over the bush.
Unbeatable, West Face and Left Side of South Face
- Dub World - V0
- ? - V0
Steel Pulse - V0+ tall
- Peck's Warmup - V3 Peck
the crimpers of the V0 between Dub World and Steel Pulse. Go up to
the lip, then traverse left to Dub World, down it, traverse across
past your starting point and over to the bottom of Steel Pulse. Go up
it to the hueco just below the top. Come down to the bottom of Is
This Love and go up it to top out.
Is This Love - V1 tall, scary
Juggy start to a crimpy middle to a juggy finish, straight up.
Johnny Too Bad - V3 (V2-V4) tall
Sit start in pockets. Go mostly up but slightly
right on slick holds to gain the lip of the arete just below the
big blocks. Don't yank on the blocks or you might end up
crushed beneath one. Top out gingerly or go left and top out on
Slippery. A contrived V4 variation starts a few feet to the
right on icky slopers, and the good edge and sidepull to the left are
Unbeatable Slabs - V0-V1 tall
Around the corner to the right, on the East-facing slab wall.
For maximum value, use only your feet.
Next to Unbeatble
- Shanty Town AKA - V3 (V3-V5)
Squat start, grab little crimps, straight up.
Short, frustrating, one-move wonder.
- Traverse - V2
Lip traverse, left to right. Don't damage the bushes.
updated December 4th, 2003