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Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Tres Hermanas Area

Head South down the road from the main Box parking lot, through two washes, up over the hill, park just before the cattle guard.

Unbeatable and Tres Hermanas as seen from the road, looking East.

The large boulder in the middle of the Valley is Unbeatable Boulder. Beyond this boulder to the East are three large boulders on the North side of the notch. These are, from left to right: Arniel, Lucia, and Angela. There are actually many large boulders on the hillside here. These boulders comprise the Tres Hermanas area. The trail goes by the South side of Unbeatable, goes East a hundred yards or so, then splits at a "Y". The left trail angles up toward Angela (Edges), while the right heads down into the gully to Harmonica Convention.

Tres Hermanas as seen from the Harmonica Convention, looking North.

Often people will lump together Tres Hermanas, Spedville and Harmonica Convention and just call the whole mess "Behind Edges".

Angela (AKA Edges) Boulder

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Most people just refer to this boulder and it's problems as "Edges".

Angela Boulder, West Face

Edges - V7 (V6-V7) tall
Sit start down in the hole on the right side of the East face and cruise up to a big hueco. Start traversing left, into another big hueco, onto and juggy flake, and then out little crimps and up sharp pockets to the big bacon flake. Ignore the glued and chiseled crap hold and keep going left to grip the stellar British Steel hold. Keep going left. Many top out at the corner, but for maximum value keep going left around the corner and across the face, then top out the dihedral.
Some of the holds have names. Going straight up from the big hueco on Edges has also been done: Once Matt Samet was high up on this and glanced down to check the landing. There was a gallon glass jug of water sitting right where he would land. He decided to keep climbing anyway, and after a few more moves a hold broke. When Matt nervously looked down on his way to the ground he was relieved to see the big glass jug gone. Jake had grabbed the jug and put down a crashpad.
1 var. Edges, hard start - V7 tall
Instead of going to the big hueco straight up from the sit start, go up and left to a long reach off an undercling to the last good hold before the crimpfest, then finish edges the normal way.
? - V? tall, scary, bad landing Peck
Sit start in the same place, but go straight up the arete.

Pig Iron - V0 very tall, bad landing Bob? 10/2007
On the South face of Angela, start where the short overhang meets the block to the left. Wander up the face avoiding the loose stuff too far to the right. If you started on top of the block instead of mantling the overhang the crux will be at the top.
Do not fall.

Lucia Boulder

The larger boulder to the North of Angela.

Perfect Hair Forever - V4 tall, scary Peck 12/24/2005
On the West face of Lucia, stand start right of the large block/crack. Do sustainted moves to the lip at about 20 feet, then follow the path of least resistance and free solo to the top.
Lines to the right are open projects

Water Boulder

This boulder is just East of Angela and just South of Lucia. It has a wild roof on the Southwest (downhill) end, and a very short wall on the East side of the uphill end.

Breathing Water - V1 Bob 2/23/2003
On the Left side of the East face is a short wall. Sit start on poor holds, work up and right to an interesting top out.
"clear part is the water and the brown part is the land
the clear part she is breathing filled with glass and bits of sand
all the body and the breathing in the bottom of her jaw
the part that I was leaving I was singing what she saw
breathing water, breathing water, breathing water, breathing water
the anger she was breeding in the wet part of her hand
was the part that I was grieving that I didn't understand
that the barbie in the bathtub had a wet spot in her lung
the clear part she was breathing was the song that barbie sung
breathing water, breathing water, breathing water, breathing water
clear part is the water and the brown part is the land
until she started biting all the fingers off her hand
like the brain collected moisture in the bottom of her jaw
like the clear part she was breathing like the blue part that I saw"
- Ant Farmers, "Breathing Water"

Water Boulder, West face

Juggz Traverse - V2 tall, bad landing Rob
Same sit start as Bouldering Bitch, but go left and top out on the left end of the face with slab moves.
? - V4 Peck
Sit start way back under the roof. Juggy, horizontal roof, exits West and then traverses left to go out the traverse.
Bouldering Bitch - V2 Sam
Sit start on jugs. Go straight up.

Fun Guy

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This boulder somewhat resembles a mushroom to the Northeast from the Harmonica Convention trail. It is Southeast of Water Boulder and South of Arniel and Chewbacca Cave. The cap is a darker red than the whitish stem.

Fun Guy, West face

Magic Mushroom - V2
Sit start on unbelievably spiffy holds on the left end of the stem where there is a boulder behind you. Go up and right to the jug where the stem meets the cap, then up the arete.
A truly excellent boulder problem.
The George Harrison Memorial Boulder Problem - V3
Sit start on an icky "Spock pinch" and tiny edge, go straight up.
Done on the day George Harrison died.
Super Psychus Psilocibus - V1 tall
Sit start on the two finger pocket and a hueco. Go up to the the crack and left on jugs to top out.
Mellow Mushroom - V2 tall, bad landing
Same start as Super Psycus Psilocibus, but after gaining the crack go right to top out.

Around the corner to the right (South):

Rubber Soul - V3 bad landing
Sit start on the right side of the stem. Go straight up to a dishy top out.
Ass Crack - V1
It's not a crack. It's actually a mantle problem over the block just right of Rubber Soul.
Named for someone's poor choice of trousers and a grossed-out spotter.

Chewbacca Cave

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There is a very large boulder just East of Arniel. The trail from Edges to Spedville takes you past this stunning overhang on the South face of that boulder.

Chewbacca Cave

Wookie on Planet Endor - V3 Scott
Crimpy overhang. Sit start in a hueco on the left side of the roof. Work out and left to the big block at the lip.
Chewbacca - V6 tall Bob Murray
Sit start on jugs a few feet to the right of Wookie on Planet Endor, and go out the roof. Top out real high on easy ground, but don't fall unless you enjoy shattered ankles.

? - V?
The corner to the right of Chewbacca. Sit start to slopers over the lip. Has not been soloed to the top, instead traverse and drop.
Now this has been bolted through the choss top

Girl Boulder

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To the East of the Chewbacca cave is a boulder with a flat, slightly overhung face on the Southwest side.

Girl Boulder, Southwest face

Feeling Merry - V4 tall, scary, crux at top Scott
Start on good holds under the right-angling dihedral. Go up to meet the dihedral and then top out.
Jump for Joy - V4 tall Scott
Start on a two underclings, and do long reaches between crimps to gain the top.
Super good.
Pinchin' Patti's Fatty - V4 Scott
Between Jump for Joy and the left edge of the West face, go straight up the obvious line.
? - V? tall

Three Man Boulder

To the East of Fun Guy and South of Chewbacca Cave, about 40 yards downhill is a boulder with an overhung, 15 foot tall face on the East side. The bottom few feet have many huecos.

Four And One - V3 Bob 3/31/2008
Sit start in a big juggy hueco, go through a pinch at about seven feet up.
I was drunk and alone when I found this and pulled off some big loose rocks trying to climb it.
Beer Helmet - V2 tall, scary Bob 3/31/2008
Sit start next to the rock to the left and go straight up through huecos, then crimps, then thin pockets.
I was drunk and alone when I found and climbed this.

updated April 1^st, 2008
Bob Broilo