Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Streambed
"Streambed'll make you strong!" - Peck exuberantly quoting Bertrand
Streambed is located just south of where the Box Canyon wash crosses
US60. You can either park on the side of the highway just West of the
bridge and head down into the wash, or you can park at the main
parking lot and head North down the canyon. This is the area
Dr. Topo guys erroneously call
Streambed is different rock than most of Box, featuring pocketed tuff.
This place is rough on your skin, especially the traverses as you tend
to twist you hands on the rough holds. These long, pumpy technical
traverses are excellent training, building fingertip calluses, forearm
stamina, and character. Bob Murray's ancient but fun problem, Left
Roof, is classic powerful pocket pulling on a horizontal roof.
There are two major walls on either side of the wash: East Streambed
and West Streambed. West Streambed is generally easier climbing, less
painful, and therefore more popular than East Streambed.
The ground level and landings are at the mercy of the summer floods.
At times, the low traverse can be much harder when the footholds are
covered in sand. Sometimes, large rocks can be deposited directly
under high problems causing dangerous landings. This area sees flash
floods several times a year. In the summer of 2006, the water flowed
over seven feet deep and washed some car-sized rocks away.
For a few years a gold mine was operated here. A wooden structure was
erected and Box was often filled with the sound of a running water
pump. The climbers and miners would regard each other with mutual
recognition of the insanity of the other, and the miner was an
interesting person to talk to while bouldering the traverses. Then
one day the miner dug up the ground under West Streambed and made a
horrible landing for a while, which understandably angered the
climbers and hikers. No gold was ever found, the public was getting
upset, and the miner was forced to leave. It took years for him to
remove all his equipment, and for a few years a boom truck was parked
a few yards up from the wall. Visiting climbers were told that the
wooden structure was a gallows.
When the landings are good, Streambed is a great place for night
bouldering. Streambed "Missions" were often run during the summer
nights when the Biting Bugs of Box were sleeping and the air was cool.
The State Police showed up during one mission, having seen the lights
and looking for a car that had seemingly driven off the highway
bridge. They left with baffled expressions for the strange idiots
climbing rocks in the middle of the night.
UTM 13S 0316390 3764313
West Streambed, Far left side
- Lip Left - V4 tall Rob*
Sit start in the streambed at the far left end of the wall, just
right of the small boulder. Go up to the lip, and then follow it
to where it intersects Left Roof and top out.
- Left of Left - V8 (V8-V10) tall
Sit start Left Roof, but at the jug go left out edges and a mono
to the lip, then straight up.
Left Roof - V5 (V4-V6) tall Bob Murray
Stand start on a jug, go out the roof on pockets to the horn, then
top out left. Sit start is a bit pumpier.
This problem is incredible fun. A Jake variation is to do
the Low Traverse right to left and then top out using Left Roof. I've
seen people campus (no feet!) this problem.
3a. Painsnake - V4 tall Bob 2/2003
Go to the high jugs on Right Roof. Traverse left on sharp holds, then
drop to the horn and top out Left Roof.
Right Roof - V3 (V3-V4)tall Bob Murray
Stand start and use the slot to gain a sloper, then either go up right
to a sharp hold and top out (4 alt), or traverse left to some jugs and
top out (4).
Very nice, super quality with fun moves
- ? - V2 (V1-V2)
Stand start and go right to top out on the slab right of the prow.
- Hidden Hold - V1 (V1-V2) tall, crux at top
Stand start on a big juggy hueco and go straight up through the two small
roofs to top out.
Lucky Seven - V5 contrived Peck
I need to put a detail picture here to show this splendid contrivance.
West Streambed, Left side
- Crimpy Thing - V2 tall
Start on the shelf, above the big hueco at navel height. Grab the
sharp jug and use small holds to the lip. Nice crimp.
- The Throne AKA Midway Crack - V2 tall, scary
Climb to the obvious seat, then top out through the overhung crack.
This is a nice place to cheat on the High Traverse, because you
can sit here and relax a bit.
- Huck - V3
Sit start on a flexing undercling. Go up and left to finger pockets,
then huck right and up about three feet to a jug. Top out if you dare.
The first move on this is one of the cruxes on the Low Traverse
- Short Cake - V5
Sit start in the same undercling as above, then crank off small edges
straight up to gain the ledge.
- Slop - V4 semi-contrived Bob*
Sit start ten feet right of the undercling. Go up and right to a
slimy knob, then up and left to small slopers, then to the good
holds on the ledge. Don't go too far right or the holds will get
huge. Traverse right and top out Guano Hold.
Sloppy Seconds - V4 tall, scary, semi-contrived Barrett 6/10/2003
Do Slop, then top out to the left.
I suddenly fell from the top of this one summer night in
2003, perhaps due to a loose foothold. Floods had recently made the
landing rocky and then I missed the pads and spotter by several feet
and landed sideways (suprise fall, 19'5" from my waist to the ground).
I sustained a Type-II Radial Head Fracture (one of the long bones in
the forearm) along with very large bruises, abrasions, and 3/4"-long
cut on my head. This was my second-worst bouldering
Joel's Pocket Pleasure - V5 contrived Joel
Just right of Slop, do reachy moves between sharp two-finger
pockets to work up and left. A detail picture is probably needed.
- Guano Hold - V1 tall, scary
The obvious line of jugs straight up to a freaky mantle top out.
The nice hold 2/3 of the way up can be filled to the lip with
guano. When this occurs, everyone who grabs it from below says
the same thing: "Eww".
West Streambed, Right side
- ? AKA Night Mission Left - V4 tall, scary, contrived Jake
Sit start to tiny sidepulls, and then throw to the huge cobble. Top
out, but the lip on the right of the top out is loose. You know, I
need a seperate page to detail the wonderful contrivances on
Conceived and executed during a night mission.
? AKA Night Mission Right - V4 tall, scary, contrived Jake
Sit start right of Night Mission Left, use two-finger pockets to get
to the huge cobble. The lip on the right of the top out is loose.
Conceived and executed five minutes after the above problem.
- ? - V2 tall
Jugs to a fist crack, mantle top-out.
- Tongue - V1 tall
Line of jugs with a "tongue" of rock sticking out the middle.
Actually the tongue is now broken off, but a big smiley hueco marks
the place where it used to be.
- ? - V0
Obvious line of weakness, topping out in the notch.
Easiest, least scary top out at Streambed
- The Right Way or the Highway - V0
Sit start, crank up juggy huecos and pull over the lip.
There used to be broken glass all over the top of this.
- Low Traverse - V2 (V2-V3) contrived
Traverse the entire wall, either direction. Stay below about six feet for the grade.
This is such a long traverse that it should probably be rated
as a route: 5.11+.
- High Traverse - V1
Traverse the entire wall, either direction.
Pumpy. About 5.11-. Jake has stayed on for a mile of laps in one push. Yes, one mile. It took hours.
Other side of the wash from West Streambed
There is a short, small wall of the same type of rock.
- ? - V1
Sit start under an overhang, nice slots to a tricky top out.
- Gorilla Face - V1
45 feet right of the above problem, on the far right side of the wall.
Sit start to jug haul top out.
updated November 30th, 2004