Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Spedville

One of Peck's earlier nicknames was Sped, so people called Peck's new area Spedville.

Follow the Tres Hermanas trail to Girl Boulder. Go around the right side of the face, and head North. You should quickly see an obvious line of boulders to the North. These boulders, and a few in the valley below, are Spedville.

On the boulder just South of Billing's Gate.

Billing's Gate

UTM 13S 0316570 3762238
This is the large, cracked boulder with a black streak and a bolt on top.

    Billing's Gate, East face
    Billing's Gate, East face.

  1. Morn - V1 tall
    On the left face
  2. ? - V? tall
    Thin and Crimpy.
  3. ? - V? tall
    Thin and Crimpy.
  4. Bright Beauty - V3 very tall
    The left leaning crack.
    There is a single bolt on top if you would rather make this a 5.11+.
  5. Ensign Highland - V3 very tall
    The right-angling crack.
    There is a single bolt on top if you would rather make this a 5.11.
  6. Zone Implant - V4 scary, bad landing
    Stand start in the seam right of the black streak, traverse right and up.

There is a boulder a few yards North (right) of Billing's Gate.
    Boulder North of Billing's Gate
    North of Billing's Gate

  1. ? - V3 tall
    Stand start the left face
  2. ? - V4
    Sit start and do the crack.

Juggernaught Boulder

overview of juggernaught, etc.
Looking North of Billing's Gate

    The Juggernaught, East face
    The Juggernaught, East face.

  1. Juggernaught - V3 (V2-V3) tall, scary
    Scramble onto the boulder at the base and gain the undercling flake. Go up and right and top out.
    "don't fall off the lip it might hurt" -Opie
  2. All for Naught - V? (V2-V3) Colin 2/18/2004
    Squat start under the huge tongue of rock just right of Juggernaught and crank straight up over the top.

Calm Horizons Boulder

    Calm Horizons Boulder, Southeast face
    Calm Horizons Boulder, Southeast face.

  1. Calm Horizons - V3 very bad landing, crux at top
    Jug haul up until the lip, then finesse the top out.
  2. Tranquil Hegemony - V? tall, scary
    Crank right out the roof.
    May not be sent yet.

  3. Calm Horizons Boulder, East face
    Calm Horizons Boulder, East face.

  4. ? - V3 contrived
    On the smaller boulder to the right. Sit start at the bottom of the off-width and use only the slopers on the right side of the off-width.
    Under the Horizon Boulder, South face
    Under the Horizon Boulder, South face.
  1. Under Anathesia - V1 Bob 2/18/2004
    Sit start to the lip.
  2. Under the Horizon - V3 contrived
    Sit start as above, then traverse right using seam across the entire face to the North end and then top out.
    "traverse harder than it looks don't touch the lip till the end" - Opie

Monkey Bars

UTM 13S 0316447 3762288
This area is uphill and West of Spedville. It is near the very top of the hill, with short, overhanging walls facing East.

    Monkey Bars, middle of lower face
    Monkey Bars, middle of lower face

  1. Beehive - V5 tall, scary
    Sit start in a juggy hueco, then work your way up to the line of heucos, and exit right on the slopy ledge.
    One of the starting holds sometimes contains an active beehive.
  2. ? - V3 tall, scary
    Start on a big sidepull, go up and left to the line of huecos, then exit right on the ledge.
  3. ? - V2 tall
    Start on little pockets and edges, go to the obvious hueco, and then straight up.
  4. ? - V0 tall
    Sit start on two underclings left of the cave, and go right to the chimney and straight up it.
    Very fun!

  5. Monkey Bars, right side of lower face
    Monkey Bars, right side of lower face

  6. Super Monkey Collider - V3 tall, scary Ben W.
    The arete on the right side of the main wall. Sit start left of the little cave on two underclings, then go up and right to the arete and crank up it.
    Super classic.
  7. The Pinche Way - V?
    Sit start to crimpy roof holds.
  8. - V?
    Short problem on the far right side.

The Outhouse

UTM 13S 0316666 3762403
"up and over the hill is a boulder with a less than desireable landing and a beautiful dyno. The Outhouse" - Opie

To the north over the hill there are several problems on a short boulder. The walls to the West are a bit loose and haven't been climbed much. To the Northeast, down in the gully is a boulder that climbs similar to Ulitmate boulder.

updated February 28th, 2007
Bob Broilo