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Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Spedville

One of Peck's earlier nicknames was Sped, so people called Peck's new area Spedville.

Follow the Tres Hermanas trail to Girl Boulder. Go around the right side of the face, and head North. You should quickly see an obvious line of boulders to the North. These boulders, and a few in the valley below, are Spedville.

On the boulder just South of Billing's Gate.

? - V?
? - V1 tall

Billing's Gate

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This is the large, cracked boulder with a black streak and a bolt on top.

Billing's Gate, East face.

Morn - V1 tall
On the left face
? - V? tall
Thin and Crimpy.
? - V? tall
Thin and Crimpy.
Bright Beauty - V3 very tall
The left leaning crack.
There is a single bolt on top if you would rather make this a 5.11+.
Ensign Highland - V3 very tall
The right-angling crack.
There is a single bolt on top if you would rather make this a 5.11.
Zone Implant - V4 scary, bad landing
Stand start in the seam right of the black streak, traverse right and up.

? - V0-
Just East and below Billing's Gate is a split roof. Grab the jugs and crank over the top.
"easy" - Opie

There is a boulder a few yards North (right) of Billing's Gate.

North of Billing's Gate

? - V3 tall
Stand start the left face
? - V4
Sit start and do the crack.

? - V2
To the north is a crack between two boulders. Grovel through this roof.

Juggernaught Boulder

Looking North of Billing's Gate

The Juggernaught, East face.

Juggernaught - V3 (V2-V3) tall, scary
Scramble onto the boulder at the base and gain the undercling flake. Go up and right and top out.
"don't fall off the lip it might hurt" -Opie
All for Naught - V? (V2-V3) Colin 2/18/2004
Squat start under the huge tongue of rock just right of Juggernaught and crank straight up over the top.

? - V1 tall, scary
The obvious tall, thin arete between The Juggernaught and Calm Horizons.

Calm Horizons Boulder

Calm Horizons Boulder, Southeast face.

Calm Horizons - V3 very bad landing, crux at top
Jug haul up until the lip, then finesse the top out.
Tranquil Hegemony - V? tall, scary
Crank right out the roof.
May not be sent yet.

Calm Horizons Boulder, East face.

? - V3 contrived
On the smaller boulder to the right. Sit start at the bottom of the off-width and use only the slopers on the right side of the off-width.

Under the Horizon Boulder, South face.

Under Anathesia - V1 Bob 2/18/2004
Sit start to the lip.
Under the Horizon - V3 contrived
Sit start as above, then traverse right using seam across the entire face to the North end and then top out.
"traverse harder than it looks don't touch the lip till the end" - Opie

? - V1 2/18/2004
Sit start near the right end of the East face and go straight up the short slab.

Monkey Bars

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This area is uphill and West of Spedville. It is near the very top of the hill, with short, overhanging walls facing East.

Monkey Bars, middle of lower face

Beehive - V5 tall, scary
Sit start in a juggy hueco, then work your way up to the line of heucos, and exit right on the slopy ledge.
One of the starting holds sometimes contains an active beehive.
? - V3 tall, scary
Start on a big sidepull, go up and left to the line of huecos, then exit right on the ledge.
? - V2 tall
Start on little pockets and edges, go to the obvious hueco, and then straight up.
? - V0 tall
Sit start on two underclings left of the cave, and go right to the chimney and straight up it.
Very fun!

Monkey Bars, right side of lower face

Super Monkey Collider - V3 tall, scary Ben W.
The arete on the right side of the main wall. Sit start left of the little cave on two underclings, then go up and right to the arete and crank up it.
Super classic.
The Pinche Way - V?
Sit start to crimpy roof holds.
- V?
Short problem on the far right side.

Monkey Bars AKA Broken Bong - V1 bad landing Steve R.
Keep going uphill from the main wall (North, right). Big huecos appear in an overhanging face. Use gymnastic moves to climb this classic jug haul over a slab landing.
Howl of the Phantom Dog - V3ish bad landing Colin 10/3/2004
Just East of the Monkey Bars area is another outcropping of rock with a big, low roof on the East side (Lynx cave). about 3-4 yards North or right of this roof is a sit-start problem with crimps and huecos. I guess the howling got really close while Colin first did this

The Outhouse

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"up and over the hill is a boulder with a less than desireable landing and a beautiful dyno. The Outhouse" - Opie

To the north over the hill there are several problems on a short boulder. The walls to the West are a bit loose and haven't been climbed much. To the Northeast, down in the gully is a boulder that climbs similar to Ulitmate boulder.

updated February 28^th, 2007
Bob Broilo