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Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Major Wall Bouldering
Further South about a mile down the road from the main Box parking
lot, through two washes, up over the hill, you'll come upon a valley
with some red rock walls. The closest wall is Major wall. Major wall
has many sport climbs and some small but interesting bouldering
areas.
Major Wall, looking North from the cattle guard.
Major Wall Bouldering
On the North end of Major Wall's West face, there are three main
bouldering walls. One is easily visible from the road above Major
Wall as a overhanging alcove. There are several undone, highball,
hard problems here, as well as a few moderate but forgettable
lines.
On the extreme North and left end of the West face of Major Wall,
where it gets low enough to provide reasonable landings, there are
some slabby to vertical problems. Do these!
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About 15 yards to the South, below the ledge that accesses the sport
climbs, there is an overhang hidden by trees. There is a horizontal
crack at about shoulder height. Some really neat holds here.
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The next problem is on the extreme right end of Major Wall's West
face:
- The Liberace's Anus Problem - V2
Just right of the start to the popular route Liberace's Anus. Pockets
and edges over the top, descent on the back (East) side.
Has this ever been given a name?
Major Wall, Right of Bon-Bon
- El Bon - V3
Traverses low from the start of Juckets and Bugs to the start of Bon Bon.
Sit start on big huecos and traverse left, then go up the slab to
the ledge.
- Juck - V3
Sit start in the same big Huecos as El Bon but huck directly up
on sharp pockets to gain the same ledge.
Dylan's Secret Garden
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Further East along Major Wall is a scenic alcove.
- ? - V5
On the right side of the left roof. Goes through the wierd pocket.
May have to contrive to get the proper amount of fun/grade.
Middle of Dylan's Secret Garden
Fingerfucker - V7 (V6-V7) tall
Use an undercling and pinches to get to the two
sharp holes, then straight up to a jug.
Fucks your finger. A classic, but it can hurt!
Middle right of Dylan's Secret Garden
- Happy Birthday Dyno - V6? (V6-V?) tall Jake
Crank off two underclings to the big razor-sharp hole.
No known second ascent, it's that ridiculous, Jake isn't sure of the grade.
2 var. Timmy's Wonderful Nightmare - V5 tall Jake
Use sharp and slick holds to bypass the dyno.
Right side of Dylan's Secret Garden
-
Butter Dish - V2 (V2-V3) tall
Crank to the dish, and then left to the line of jugs and up.
3 var. Under the Radar - V3 tall
A direct line that avoids the dish.
- Porcupine - V1 bad cactus landing
On the right side of the wall, go right and up the arete.
- Traverse - V1
Traverse the entire bottom of the wall.
The Slabs to the right (East) are extremely good solos, from 5.6 to
5.9. Above the wall are suprisingly few good lines, but don't let
that stop you from exploring around up in there!
updated March 4th, 2007
Bob Broilo