Socorro Bouldering Guide - Box Canyon - Handlebar Willy

UTM 13S 0316027 3762789
Partway up the hill South from the main Box parking lot there is a old wire rope gate with a pulloff on the right side of the road. Up to the East are several walls, the lighter red, North one with some roofs near the top is Handlebar Willy.

There are some closer boulders on both sides of the road here, generally short and sharp with a few interesting problems.

Handlebar Willy North Face

On the North (left) end of the Handlebar Willy wall, around the corner and facing North. A good warmup spot, often hidden from the wind. Some sharp bouldering just to the North down the hill a bit (Darth Vader V4?).
    Handlebar Willy, North face left
    Handlebar Willy, Left side of North Face

  1. ? - V1
    Start way back under the curtain on incut jugs. Climb out and over.
    for V4 do not use the back wall, just the curtain.
  2. ? - V3
    Same start as above, but exit the curtain, go through the finger slot and over the top.
  3. ? - V2
    Stand start and use sharp holds to top out. Ouch!
  4. ? - V3
    Sit start way under the curtain, those jugs are underclings from this angle. Avoid the butt dab and crank it out.
    Fun and stupid.
  5. ? - V1
    Sit start on weird holds, crank.
  6. ? - V0 tall
    Obvious jug haul.

  7. Handlebar Willy, North face right
    Handlebar Willy, Right side of North Face

  8. ? - V0- tall
    Huecos in a crack.
  9. ? - V1 tall, scary, bad landing
    Sit start under the bulge, crank up to and over the next bulge and top out.

Handlebar Willy

The long, broken West facing wall seen from the parking spot. The following two problems are to the left of the picture:
    Handlebar Willy, Left end
    Handlebar Willy, Left end

  1. Look Ma (no hands) - V0 Bob
    No hands problem up the crack. Also a handy downclimb.
    Jake came up with this silly thing.
  2. ? - V2 tall, scary Peck
    Go straight up the wall just right of the crack.
    Watch for looseness near the top.
  3. Handlebar Willy - V1 tall, scary, crux at top Will
    Long reaches through jugs up the open book, escaping right under the overhanging block to top out.
    Magnificent: Great rock, good holds, big moves, and the top out will make you think (and maybe even back off). Named after Will's facial hair at the time.
  4. Handlebar Willy Direct - V5 tall, scary Peck
    Sit start under the roof, up the small face holds to the jugs.
  5. ? - V1 tall, bad landing Peck
    Up the right side of the arete.
    Sit start adds two grades but you gotta crank some sharpness.
  6. Ape Hanger - V5 tall, scary
    Sit start on the right-hand face, traverse left across the crack and jugs to the crux of Handlebar Willy Direct.
  7. ? - V0 tall, bad landing Paul
    Lieback the crack to the alcove, then top out.
  8. ? - V1 tall, bad landing Paul
    Crank small holds to the alcove, then walk left and top out.

  9. Handlebar Willy, Left end
    Handlebar Willy, Left end

  10. The Handlebar Willy Solo - V4 tall, scary, bad landing Will
    Long moves from jug to jug, the straight out the roof and over the lip.
    Someone added two bolts on top, which turns this stupid proud highball into a ho-hum toprope. Willy fell from the roof once with no rope, but he's nigh invulnerable.

  11. Handlebar Willy, Middle
    Handlebar Willy, Middle

  12. ? - V0 tall
    Follow jugs up the wide crack.
  13. ? - V0 tall, bad landing
    Sit start to jug haul, walking left upon reaching the ledge.

updated January 6th, 2010
Bob Broilo